The Autumnal Glow of Giacosa(下篇)

Bruno Giacosa 認為他的 2004 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto 是他十年來最好的 Barolo ,也就是說,比經典年份 1996 2001 還要好。Giacosa 是公認的謙謙君子,他這樣說誰敢不相信,雖然好的Barolo 要放上二十年以上才見真章。

我也翻查了我最信賴的意大利酒評人 Antonio Galloni The Wine Advocate Barolo 的所有評分,我發現拿最高分數的是 1989 Giacosa Collina Rionda 100分)與 2004 Giacosa Le Rocche del Falletto 99+分)。另外, 1978 Giacosa Villero 2001 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino 同時評了 99 分。

至于 Stephen Tanzer ,他的三瓶最好的 Barolo 是出自 Giacosa Falletto 葡萄園的﹕2004 Le Rocche del Falletto 2000 Le Rocche del Falletto 1996 Falletto Riserva 都評了98分。

看來專家的意見與 Giacosa 是一致的。

但買不到這幾瓶 Giacosa 的珍品怎麼辦?

讓我們聽聽 Giacosa 本人的意見。

Antonio Galloni 2007 年的一篇酒評裏曾提過﹕

When I asked Bruno Giacosa to name the top terroirs in Barolo he replied Pianpolvere, followed by Falletto, Vigna Rionda and Bussia.

所以買不到Giacosa Falletto ,不妨試試其他三個 Giacosa 心目中的 Barolo Grand Crus Pianpolvere Vigna Rionda Bussia

 

 

先說 Pianpolvere Bussia

兩者都位于 Monforte d’Alba 村。“Bussia” 其實是在 Monforte 西北的一系列連綿山脈的通稱,比較高的部分名叫 Bussia Soprana ,與 Barolo 村為鄰,而比較低的部分 Bussia Sottana 則鄰近 Castiglione Falletto 村。

Aldo Conterno 三個很有名的葡萄園即位于Bussia Soprana 海拔 450 米之處﹕其中 Cicala 最有結構、Colonello 比較柔和、Romirasco 則比較典雅。Aldo Conterno GranbussiaBussia 大合奏)便是以Romirasco 為主,混合了三個葡萄園的經典名酒。我在以前的網誌曾多次介紹,見﹕

Barolo 的儒者﹕Aldo Conterno

心無罣礙 vs 心無罣礙﹕記 1988 Granbussia

 

以酒論價, Granbussia 絕對是超值之選! 

Giacosa 1974-1979 曾四度從 Bussia 一帶購買葡萄來釀造 Bussia di Monforte Riserva Speciale ,可見這是他很喜歡的 terroir

至于被 Giacosa 推為 Barolo 第一葡萄園的 Pianpolvere ,則位于 Bussia 山脈之南,原來的主人 Riccardo Fenocchio 在此曾釀造 Barolo ,但評價好像不太高,直到同村的 Rocchedei Manzoni 莊主 Valentino Migliorini 1998 年從 Fenocchio 買進這葡萄園,並在 8 年後推出名為 1999 Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Bussia Riserva 7 Anni 的第一個年份,我們才明白 Giacosa 為何高度讚譽 Pianpolvere Barolo 的第一。

這瓶 Barolo 號稱「七年之釀」(7 Anni),是因為酒的面世以前曾在新的法國小木桶發酵3年,大木桶1年,然後在酒瓶再儲存3年,比產區對 Riserva 酒的規定長兩年。因此 1999 年份在 2006 年才推出。我們在 2008 年開過一瓶,記憶中是比較緊閉的。最近我們開了第二瓶,但覺其明亮照人,如 Bussia 山中的一顆耀眼明珠。

第一天酒一開已芳香撲鼻,類玫瑰、紫羅蘭、薄荷等香氣,清新甜美的果味,酒體如披上了輕紗的芭蕾舞者,閉起眼來,我會想起年青的 Soldera Salvioni Brunello 多于 Barolo

酒放到第二天香氣仍然維持,但酒體厚了,更濃、更深沉,果的甜味也更 intense ,更 Barolo

一言以蔽之,這是典雅風格Barolo 的極致,最難得的是他有一種「舉重若輕」的感覺,而且木桶味道完全不明顯,難怪論者都說 Migliorini Piedmont 最有法國品味的 winemaker

Valentino Migliorini 2007 年年底不幸去世了,他的兒子 Rodolfo 聽說完全秉承著父親的方針。

Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Bussia Riserva 7 Anni 年產大概 10,000 瓶,只在好的年份釀造,目前已面世的有 1999 2000 2001 三個年份,這30,000 Valentino Migliorini 遺產與 Giacosa red label 同樣珍貴!奇怪的是這瓶酒的價格,比 Giacosa Barolo red label 與 Granbussia 都要低! 

Giacosa 最喜歡的另外兩個 Barolo 名園 Falletto Vigna Rionda 同在 Serralunga d’Alba 村。

Vigna Rionda 的聲譽,長久以來是與 Bruno Giacosa 連在一起的。從 1967 1993 年的 25 年間, Giacosa 一共釀造了 13 名叫 Collina Rionda 的名酒,其中 6 次是他認為特佳的年份,推出了 red label Riserva 196719781979198219891990)。他的 1989 是唯一拿了Antonio Galloni 100分滿分的酒。

但可惜的是,Giacosa 的葡萄是從一位名叫 Aldo Canale 的酒農那裏買的,由于 Giacosa 嫌他的開價越來越貴,所以從 1993 年以後,Giacosa 便再沒有釀造 Collina Rionda 了。

今天還有釀造 Vigna Rionda Barolo 的,主要有 Massolino、Oddero Luigi Pira 三家。

除此以外, Roagna 近年也有一瓶 Vigna Rionda Barolo ,據 Antonio Galloni 說是由 Aldo Canale Luca Roagna 協助下釀造的,我有一瓶 2005 還沒有品試,但聽說品質不太穩定。

Massolino 是傳統派,而 Luigi Pira 是新派,我們最近先後品試了他們的 2001

Massolino 經過大半天在原瓶透氣之後,散發出新鮮、濃烈的鮮玫瑰花瓣的典型香氣。味道是 Rionda 典型的 dark fruit with an inner core of sweetness ,是粗眉大眼的 Latino 男子漢,與 Pianpolvere Francophile 相比好像是從另一個世界來的。

我對 Luigi Pira 無疑是有偏見的,開瓶後的初段,香氣被新木桶的氣味掩蓋了,到了大半天以後,木桶味仍然像我母親拜神燒香似的在我背後揮之不去。但如果我可以暫時忘卻這外來物的影響,我還是可以聞到玫瑰花瓣的香氣,但沒有 Massolino 那樣深沉、濃烈。味道方面,Luigi Pira 較清晰、單薄,無論甜味、酸度或丹寧都更尖銳、突出或者說更誇張。一句話﹕很 international

傳統與新派是 hi-fi 裏的膽與石、照相機世界裏的 Leica vs Nikon。這是另一明證。

 

 

Barolo terroir 千變萬化, Giacosa 的選擇,很清晰的讓我們看到他的口味。他沒有選 Cascina Francia ,我看絕不是因為 Giacomo Conterno 與他是齊名的酒神。如果他自大,他大可以說 Falletto 是第一,Pianpolvere 是第二。

我個人的意見是﹕Cascina Francia 太陽剛了,太 Beethoven 了, Giacosa 喜歡的是比較陰柔一點,有餘未盡,比較 Mozart 的那種味道,所以 Vigna Rionda 的剛勁已經是他能接受的極限,也所以他把 Pianpolvere 放在他自己的 Falletto 之上。

對喜歡這種 Mozart 口味的人, Giacosa 選的這四個葡萄園是上上之選。從十三歲開始跟隨祖父與父親踏遍 Piedmont 每一村土地的 Giacosa 絕對不會錯。  

3 thoughts on “The Autumnal Glow of Giacosa(下篇)

  1. This is terrifc. I need to read this in detail.
    [版主回覆10/29/2010 17:59:00]I know you prefer Bach!

  2. 心兄,
    Rereading this piece again after some interesting recent developments. I had a bottle of 1999 Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Bussia Riserva 7 Anni about half a year ago and you’re absolutely right that it’s a very “French” wine with its use of French Oak barrique. The interesting part that I have seen this wine on market recently going for a little more than a bottle of Produttori del Barbaresco single cru!!! I ended up getting a handful of the ’99.
    On a separate note, I stopped by my favorite wine store (not IWM) last night. The shopkeeper told me a piece of news regarding Vigna Rionda. He said that after Aldo Canelli (spelling?) passed away, his portion of Vigna Rionda got divided amongst three sons. From a recent tour to Piemonte, he told me that Canelli’s Vigna Rionda is not in good shape and some of the old vines were ripped out. My heart sank hearing that. However, one of the sons decided to continue to make / sell wine with the help of Giovanni Ross and the first vintage is 2010. This gentleman had a chance to taste the barrel sample and he thinks it’s a promising wine. I am keeping my fingers crossed on that.
    I ended up picking up a bottle of 1974 Scarpa Barolo Otinasso Castiglione Falletto. I will enjoy this over this long weekend…
    [版主回覆09/01/2012 13:38:49]We missed each other in HK! Let me know when you come again, as the chance of me visiting NYC would be like buying a Bordeaux again!
    [Brian回覆09/01/2012 12:48:41]I believe he mentioned the name Porro as well but I am not familiarized with them. He did mention he didn't think too much about their wines…so that's have to be seen then.
    Well, I just wish I can be in Hong Kong to share a few wines with you. We made a short trip back recently with our wine-loving son but it was for family matter so I didn't want to bother you. Maybe next time. Meanwhile, enjoy your Rionda!
    [版主回覆09/01/2012 08:09:44]Thanks for the update. I also heard about the 三家分圓(I think "Rionda" is "Round" in Italian): Giovanni Rossi was one, but I forgot the others (Guido Porro was one? ). I was lucky to have obtained '82 and '85 of the Pianpolvere made by the original owner, but did not try them yet. Also to my surprise I've got Aldo Canale's 1978 Riunda (that's his spelling) and in actual fact at the time I saw your message I have just opened 4 bottles of different Riondas (including the Canale) for a tasting for my best friends. Wish me luck!

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