Scavino the Sculptor : Castiglione Falletto 紀行(之二)

上文說過, Castiglione Falletto 村位于兩種主要土壤(Tortonian Helvetian)的交叉點,所以土質極度複雜。結果是這裏的 Barolo 有個特色,是 elegance structure 的美妙平衡。

Brovia 的莊主便曾這樣說過﹕

“In other Barolo communes, the terroir tends to yield wines whose complexity of bouquet and elegance predominate over their strength and structure.  In the best Castiglione Falletto wines, all of these qualities are in perfect balance.”   

個人覺得,優雅的Castiglione Falletto 比較多見,但兼有結構的,當推 Fiasco 葡萄園。前文介紹過 Brovia Garblet Sue' 正是出自這個葡萄園,但最出名的,要數 Paolo Scavino 的 Bric dël Fiasc。

Bric dël Fiasc 可以說是一件藝術品。那金光閃閃的酒標,大概表達了原創人 Enrico Scavino 在最窮苦的歲月中對未來的憧憬吧?

Enrico 生于二次大戰之始。八歲那年,祖父 Lorenzo 去世,爸爸 Paolo 與伯父 Alfonso 分了家,開始用 Paolo Scavino 的名字經營農場,當時他們既釀酒也飼養家畜。他十三歲時,爸爸問他要繼續念書還是在農場幹活,Enrico 選擇了 Bruno Giacosa 十二年前走的老路,從十三歲開始便決定與葡萄酒共度一生。

他爸爸開心得不得了,因為兒子這雙手,為他省下不少錢。每年為雇用一個工人他都得賣掉一頭牛!可見他們當時過的是比較艱苦的日子。

Enrico 很有天份,早在 1978 年他便建議爸爸用單一葡萄園釀造 Barolo ,是為 Bric dël Fiasc 。四年後的一天,鼎鼎大名的 Luigi Veronelli 登門造訪,並發表文章高度贊譽 Paolo Scavino ,酒莊從此便飛躍龍門!

Bric dël Fiasc 年產量大概一萬瓶。其後 Enrico 也在別的村租或買葡萄園,1985 年推出 Barolo 村的 Cannubi (年產量約三千瓶), 1990 年推出  La Morra 村的 Rocche dell'Annunziata (年產量約三千瓶),都是精雕細琢的作品。酒莊認為 Bric dël Fiasc 是他們的皇,而 Rocche dell'Annunziata 是后,可見 Bric dël Fiasc 是他們的鎮山之寶。

我們先後品試過 1989 1990 1994 1998 2001 五個年份,我的感覺是 Bric dël Fiasc 是件雕塑藝術品。

1990 年是五瓶當中最熟的,今天開是最好喝的,但也要在瓶內透氣五、六個小時後才開始真人露相,有點 smoky 的氣味,很濃烈、複雜的花香,而味道是典雅的,鮮甜的,顯露出柔情的一面。如果 Brovia Garblet Sue’ 是村夫,則 Bric dël Fiasc 是公子。我們大概開瓶九小時後下杯,但很奇怪,踫到大量空氣後,酒的酸度提高了,酒體變薄了,而且失去了平衡度。但約莫過了一個小時多一點,酒又來個大變身,酒體膨脹了,變得圓潤、豐厚,微量的酸度,有很好的整體平衡,丹寧細如絲,很性感的酒!我好像目睹一件偉大的雕塑作品在我面前一步一步的成形!

1989 年應該更慢熟,一般的評價是比 1990 高半線,但我們這瓶很快已經變得比較酸,而且酒體薄,完全沒有 1990 的影子,可能是保存得不太好吧。藝術品畢竟與工業制品不一樣。

作為藝術家,Enrico 是不會對 Piedmont 當時的「新浪潮」無動于衷的,所以從 1993 年開始,他決定棄用傳統的 Slavonian 大木桶,全面改用法國小木桶陳年,也因為這樣,一般人把 Paolo Scavino 歸類為現代派。我認為這不過是藝術家的實驗期,而我們試過的 1994 1998 便是他這時期的實驗作品。

1994 似乎是失敗之作。這是個比較弱的年份,酒的香氣與味道都欠奉,唯一突出的是木桶味。

1998 卻很出色。這是個中等好的年份,但酒隱約透露出一點 1990 的功架。同樣是硬朗的身段,在瓶內五、六個小時後才慢慢整合,下杯後還不停的變化,酒體慢慢膨脹,堅韌度竟然有幾分像 Giacosa Falletto 葡萄園!再加上那豐厚、黑實的果味,我懷疑這瓶酒起碼再過一、二十年才見真章!從這瓶 Bric dël Fiasc 我強烈感覺出他像個雕塑品!木桶味在這裏並不明顯。

從 1993 1998 這六年裏,Enrico 大概每天做夢也聞到小木桶的氣味。究竟大好還是小好?這是個 Hamlet 式的問題。

Enrico 結果采取了中庸之道﹕從 1999 年起,酒的陳年是頭一年用小木桶,第二年改用大木桶。這恰巧是 Angelo Gaja 經過多年實驗後的做法!

我們找來一瓶 2001 年,想知道這新作品有何新意。我初步的感覺是﹕棱角似乎磨平了一些,在開始的一兩個小時裏,公子好像搖身一變成為淑女了!但等到真正下杯,踫到空氣以後,酒體卻逐漸變大變硬,堅實的丹寧也出來了, Bric dël Fiasc 的雕塑品本色也出來了!但有一個明顯的新特色,是酒似乎多了一種 fresh and clean 的感覺,有幾分像 Gaja ,比起典型的現代派明顯的多了一分輕盈。潛力很好,但好年份的 Bric dël Fiasc 是需要二三十年才成熟的,所以現在下判斷還是過早。但既然 Enrico 用這新方法快十年了,想來藝術家的信心應該是很大的。在酒莊的網站有以下一番話,想是 Enrico 當前的結論﹕

 

There is no place for the discussion about innovators and traditionalists in the cellar; there are barriques and large oak casks as Barolo needs both types of wood.

 

(見﹕http://www.paoloscavino.com/eng/home_eng.html

 

 

結果如何,最後還得由 Enrico 的女兒 Enrica 回答。她早已開始參與酒莊的管理,我們也可以期待觀賞新的 Scavino 雕塑作品!

 

照片來源﹕http://www.winepictures.com/winepics/italy/Scavino/scavino.html

 

(待續)

 

 

 

10 thoughts on “Scavino the Sculptor : Castiglione Falletto 紀行(之二)

  1. 今次你重點介紹此酒描述得非常精彩,我早前上她們的web site看過後,從多款裏面決定選金色label,今天看過你的文章,我選對了,我之前還有個問題, 新舊年份價錢相差很大,現在又給你解釋了,我相信新年份新的釀法會更期待,我買的正是2001,價錢頗平,這之前還想買較貴的紅label,還有之前的文章給了很好意見,看完認識多了,買酒時能準確選中自己喜愛免除很多陷阱,我一向極愛意大利酒,早就放棄波爾多了,謝謝。還有一個問題想請教,之前你曾多次提及barolo隔天後表现更好,期间有没有抽真空,定打開瓶至下一天呢?因我也有你之前提及的Elio Altara Arborina Langhe Rosso, 先謝謝師兄意見,等你下篇更好的文章。
    [版主回覆04/16/2010 09:31:00]我一般把喝剩的半瓶抽真空然後放電冰箱,效果似乎不錯。
     
    聽說 Barolo 可以放一個星期也不變壞,有時候更越來越好。但我自己還沒有做過實驗。
     
    至于 Scavino 的三種主要 single vineyard Barolo ,很難說孰高孰低,因為他們是不同 communes 來的,風格完全不一樣,看你的口味而定。喜歡 La Morra 式鮮艷果味的話, Rocche dell'Annunziata 是貴得有道理的。
     
    我推許   Bric dël Fiasc 是因為他最能表現Castiglione Falletto 的特色﹕structure AND elegance ,這也是口味。
     
    謝謝你看得那麼細!

  2. 謝謝師兄意見,其實這三個label 已看過她們的tasting notes 及看過她們來自不同村莊,柔中帶剛有層次,structure 較合我意。Barolo已儲了頗多,但barbaresco 還很難找到你早前介紹的,慢慢找吧。反而你提及過的Tenuta Della Terre Nere 的Etna prephylloxera 正在找尋中,酒莊其餘出品多年前已飲過,水準頗高,很像陳年了的burgundy,有驚喜,價錢合理,可能識的人不多,我都是從多年前的葡萄酒王國中的意大利篇知道的,之後見到就買了,我建議師兄也應該找來嘗試。
    [版主回覆04/19/2010 18:31:00]Tenuta Delle Terre Nere 的 Feudo di Mezzo 終于試過了,不錯,good but not great。 Etna Rosso Prephilloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino  也找到了,以後再試。
     
    昨天也試了一瓶 2005 Dettori Rosso ,Sardinia 的 Grenache ( 在意大利叫 Cannonau ),是一大驚喜﹕香氣像 CDP,但 texture 輕盈如 Burgundy ,15.5% 酒精度但感覺不出來。值得找來試試!
     
    Castiglione Falletto 下一篇我會講 Giuseppe Mascarello ,你試過嗎?
     

  3.  
    “Paolo Scavino” is one of my favorite Barolos.   Besides Red, I was really impressed by its Bianco Sorriso 2001 when the first time I tried in 2005. Even the simple Langhe Bianco and Barbera are also quite enjoyable too!
     
    Giuseppe Mascarello ~ do like it a lot too.  I was lucky as I visited them two years ago and got some nice bottles as a gift because that day was my Birthday!  ^_^
     
    Expecting your new article!
    [版主回覆04/17/2010 11:15:00]WOW, what G Mascarello did you get?
     
    I read about Enrico's story in Sergio Esposito's book.  Deeply moving.  Artist of the soil, and I really got the feeling that Bric del Fiasc is a sculptural piece: 可遠觀而不可褻玩焉 would be an apt description before it gets 20!
     

  4. "這裏的 Barolo 有個特色,是 elegance 與 structure 的美妙平衡。"
    " 個人覺得,優雅的 Castiglione Falletto 比較多見,但兼有結構的,當推 Fiasco 葡萄園。"
     
    知己!!!
    [版主回覆04/17/2010 19:24:00]知彼。

  5. I got three bottles each of Giuseppe Mascarello –
    Barolo Villero 1999 & Barolo Monprivato 1999
    [版主回覆04/17/2010 19:27:00]Lucky you!
     
    Seems it's much easier to get hold of Monprivato than their two other cru offerings: Villero and San Stefano.  Would love to know how they compare!

  6. Dettori 就未嘗試過,經你介紹後才查她資料,才知cannonau 就是Grenache, 又學多一樣呀。 這個brand未見過,下次見到買來嘗試下,Tenuta Della terre Nere 是good不是great, 對,但價錢不算貴,可以嘗試另類一些,反而好想嘗試prephilloxera, 才下定論。
    [版主回覆04/20/2010 11:03:00]Terre Nere 是 "land of black" 之意。我想是因為那些火山土壤顏色深黑之故。我看過資料說﹕
     
    These are the highest altitude red grape vineyards in the "old world"  … Harvest here is roughly between mid and the end of October making it the latest harvest in Italy after Aglianico (first week of November) … this is a very difficult climate, in many ways akin to Burgundy … Everyone who has tasted the wines of Terre Nere … (as Elio Altare) says they find them most akin to Burgundy or Barolo … and the Etna could easily be seen as the Burgundy of the Mediterranean …
     
    很值得再作探討的酒,難得的是沒有一般南部酒的那麼 jammy 。

  7. Good article again.  Had the 97 Scavino Bric del Fiasc few weeks ago, you described it well, Structure and Elegance..not a lady elegance in Burgundy way but rather a real gentleman- Mr.Darcy.  I only wish I have longer time to enjoy the evolution of it  but the bottle empty too fast. Thank you for sharing so much about Italian wines.
    [版主回覆04/20/2010 10:54:00]Shall we call that the clash of two titans, when Haut Brion meets Bric del Fiasc.  I had '97 twice before, and it was frighteningly tannic.  One wonders if it will ever turn around.  Suggest you look for '98, or '88.

  8. I found that the detail of Dettori, they have 3 kind of Reds made from Cannonau, Tuderi (60yrs old Vines), Tenores (80 yrs old Vines) and Dettori Rosso (120+ yrs old Vines). I really interest in Dettori Rosso. I think the style of this one like a very fine CDP, maybe like a Ch. Rayas… But this winery also have another 2 kind of red, I don't know this two red? Do you know that? 1. Ottomarzo (100% Pascale) and Chimbanta (100% Monica)….. Thank you
    [版主回覆04/20/2010 18:35:00]
    I have the first three, but not the others. 
     
    Chateau Rayas?  I dare not suggest this as I only had a 2003 three years ago.  At that time, it was almost completely closed, only revealing a little on the 3rd day.  But this 2005 Rosso is already open for business!

  9. For Rayas, if you want to enjoy now, please try: 1997, 1995, 1990, 1985.
    Please give it one more chance, wont disappoint you.
    [版主回覆04/26/2010 15:38:00]Thanks.  Would really like to give it many more chances.  "If I could, I really would", as Paul Simon sang.

  10. 今天剛進了Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1990, 看來下年可以和他重聚了
    [版主回覆12/22/2010 09:23:00]Wonderful!

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