Love in the Time of Coronavirus (7):十八羅漢大檢閲(上)

趁疫情稍爲緩和,我從五月中至七月中一口氣辦了 9 場隨意行,之後第三波爆發,只好重新閉關,幸好有好酒好書相伴,也不愁寂寞。

自從開始隨意行以來,我習慣了把重要的酒留給試酒會,平常在家,就隨便喝點簡單的或者引起我們好奇的酒。這段日子,正好太太過生日,我便認真一點,在家裏來一次大檢閲。回想我們 12 年前也連續 8 個星期做了一次類似的檢閲(見:A Wine Journey in Eight Weeks, and Five Years),當時我剛從法入意,這次為時 6 星期,但規模更大。我請來了十八羅漢,除了 10 款 Barolo/Barbaresco 和 3 款 Brunello 以外,還有 5 款 Burgundy。我想分上下兩篇談談有何驚與喜。

The Fab 18
Damilano, Barolo Cannubi, 1954
Conterno Giacomo, Barolo Monfortino Riserva, 1961
Rinaldi Giuseppe, Barolo Brunata, 1967
Rinaldi Francesco, Barolo Vigna del Gioch Cavalieri Tartufo, 1971
La Spinona, Barbaresco, 1971
Giacosa Bruno, Barbaresco Gallina, 1990
Cappellano, Barolo Rupestris, 2006
Mascarello Giuseppe, Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio, 2008
Giacosa Bruno, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva, 2012
Giacosa Bruno, Barbaresco Asili Riserva, 2014
Il Colle, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 1985
Baricci, Brunello di Montalcino, 1989
Le Chiuse, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, 2010
Faiveley, Chambertin Clos de Beze, 1989
DRC, Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru, 1996
Follin-Arbelet, Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru, 2007
Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Grand Cru, 2007
Armand Rousseau, Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques, 2007

我們從 Piemonte 出發,讓我從最新的年份説起。

Giacosa 我算喝過不少,但要説令我最震撼的是一老一嫩。

前年開的 1971 Falletto 紅標幾乎可以說是 ageless 的,弄得一位鐵粉如瘋似癲,甚是有趣(見:VIPa-6 第 8 場 — 懷念 Giacosa 之三:1971 )。

不過令我多年念念不忘的始終是十年前初嘗的 2004 Asili 和 Falletto,兩瓶都是紅標。他們顛覆了我對適飲期(drinking window)的定見,以後十年,我好幾次再開這兩瓶酒,但那種初生之犢的鮮嫩,甜美,始終不可再得,每次都令我有悵然的失落感(請看這兩篇:The Autumnal Glow of Giacosa (上篇)A Night in Birdland)。

後來我想到一個辦法。去年我買到新推出的 Giacosa Bruno, Barbaresco Asili Riserva, 2014 時,我算了一下,如果我在 2020 年開 2014,或許可以重新經歷一次當年 2004 帶來的震撼。

誰料希望越大,失望也越大。2014 美則美矣,但她似乎來自另一國度。

打個比喻,如果 2004 年的色調是紅色,則 2014 肯定是棕色的。我選了花日來品嘗,但入口依然以棕色的礦物與樹林泥土的味道為主,玫瑰是有的,但似乎深深埋在泥土底下。2004 完全通透,滿眼是萬里無雲的藍天,而 2014 卻有如深秋,天空灰濛濛的,有種沉鬱的感覺。2004 像個跳芭蕾舞的小姑娘,2014 卻是個掉進沉思中的哲學家。Stephen Tanzer 與 Antonio Galloni 都曾經把 Giacosa 比喻為 Musigny,我看放在 2004 身上是合適不過的,但 2014 更像 Chambertin。

我翻看 Alessandro Masnaghetti 的地圖集,才瞭解原來 2004 是近乎完美的年份,陽光與雨水都在合適的時候出現,緩慢的生長期令產量大但同時質量高。相反,2014 卻是個異常的年份,雨水較多在七月與九月出現,Masnaghetti 對這一年的酒有如下概括:

The nervous character and the crunchy fruit recall the Nebbiolo of cooler zones such as Gattinara and the Valtellina even if examples of more full-bodied Barolo are not lacking.

比  Barolo 早熟的 Barbaresco 可能比 Barolo 好一點,但雨水比陽光多的年份把 2014 Asili 染成棕色了。

2014 不是不好,只不過解不了我對 2004 的思念。唯有寄望 2016,看資料這年份似乎與 2004 很相似。再等兩年吧。

 

因爲 Barolo 的 2014 Riserva 還未到,我便開了 Giacosa Bruno, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva, 2012 來替代。看 Masnaghetti 的分析,2012 與 2006,2009 和 2000 同樣屬於稍爲早熟的年份。我們喝了兩天,經歷了忌、花與果的時辰,Giacosa 隨歌起舞,第二天最漂亮,有檀香木和灑落濕泥土的花瓣,也有頗豐富的棕色的礦物與香料,最重要的是丹寧是粉狀的,有結構但不算嚇人,早熟的年份果然非常適飲。

 

除了 Giacosa 的 2014 Asili,另一瓶我非常期待的是 Mascarello Giuseppe, Barolo Riserva Monprivato Ca d’Morissio, 2008,同樣也爲了懷舊的原因。話説七年前的 2013 年,隨意行還在試辦階段。我一口氣辦了 9 場以後,問大家有哪些酒印象最深刻,Giacosa 與 Monfortino 是大熱門,但我偏偏選了不太開放的 2001 Giuseppe Mascarello, Barolo Monprivato Ca d’Morissio。我當時的評語是:

三十多瓶中數他最令我心癢,tantalizing,一種若即若離的感覺,伊人在水之一方,你每走近一步,他卻彷彿飄得更遠。

(見:喝一口 Emozione(VIPa 導賞活動之回顧篇)

沒錯,那瓶酒還在將醒未醒之間,但這境界最難求。

我算了一下,七年後的今天,開一瓶七年後在原地長出來的 Ca d’Morisio,或者可以與伊人重遇?

我們喝了四天,第二天最近似七年前的感覺,當天是果日,午飯時疑有花蹤,但你要像找白松露那樣努力從泥土下找,這種黛玉葬花之美,有幾分當年 2001 的若即若離的感覺。入口有這塊田很典型的如絲似的柔滑,幾乎感覺不到丹寧,極度通透。2001 熱情,這 2008 冷艷,因爲 2008 正是個陰涼、晚熟的年份。我滿足了。

 

Cappellano, Barolo Rupestris, 2006 出奇地開放,果、酸、礦物俱全,而且非常優雅,好喝。我開這瓶的原因是有朋友說看到評論說這款酒有點過熟了,要趁早開,他問了我意見。凴我這瓶,現在已經適飲,但多放十年八年也應該沒問題。不過我在網上發表報告後,有不少人說那年的瓶差頗厲害,有些真的蠻老的。這只好靠運氣了,不過如果你碰到一瓶狀態好的,我建議你避開根日,因爲 Cappellano 的焦油味(tar)頗重,花與果會令酒平衡些。

 

可喜的是幾款老酒喝來都不老。

Giacosa Bruno, Barbaresco Gallina, 1990 最慢熱,第一天像鋼絲一樣,什麽層次都沒有,要等到第四天才有碎花和香料,有一點點層次出來,到第六天,喝到瓶底,竟然很甜美,什麽都融化了,這時才開始有點複雜。

 

兩瓶 1971 的比對很有趣。La Spinona, Barbaresco, 1971 可能受木塞影響,總有點麻包袋的不乾净氣味,但比起 Rinaldi Francesco, Barolo Vigna del Gioch Cavalieri Tartufo, 1971 絕對更有力量。以前便知道 Sheldon Wasserman 說 1971 的 Barbaresco 不夠典型,欠缺細膩,是穿上 Barbaresco 外衣的 Barolo。我再細看資料,才知道 1971 的 Barbaresco 在那個年代是低產的年份,但在 Barolo 卻產量很高。

以前在隨意行開過 Rinaldi Francesco, Barolo Vigna del Gioch Cavalieri Tartufo, 1971 ,上次很多菌類香氣,有典型的成熟 Barolo 之美,這瓶卻年輕得多,好在和諧。這和諧正是 Barolo 村的特徵,尤其是最有名的 Cannubi 葡萄園。那個年代流行混釀,很少有單一園的 Cannubi,但酒標上明明寫著 Vigna del Gioch 和 Cascina Palazzo, Cannubio,於是我寫信問酒莊。以前在香港酒展碰過面的 Pietra Rinaldi 很耐心的向我解釋了這名字的由來。原來他們家一直住在 Cannubi(以前也叫 Cannubio)旁邊的一座很大的房子,從 1930 年才搬到 Alba。他們給 Cannubi的巨宅起了個 Cascina Palazzo 的名字,意即皇宮農舍。至於 Gioch 是土話,雞寮的意思,他們在田的旁邊有個養鷄的屋子,因此他們戲稱那片 Cannubi 田為雞寮葡萄園。還有,他們的 1971 Barolo 有三個版本,他們平常釀的 Barolo 是四塊田的混釀(Codana, Vignane, Rocche dell’Annunziata 與 Sarmassa),1971 年他們被 Cavalieri del Tartufo(松露騎士會)選爲年度佳釀,爲此他們特別推出了另外兩款酒,其一是我們現在喝的雞寮葡萄園,是 Cannubi 的單一園,只有 1,500  瓶,另外一款釀了 1,000 瓶,簡單叫 Barolo,除了上面的四塊田以外可能還加上一點 Brunate(他們叫 Brunata)。有幸我三款都喝過,記憶中以雞寮這款最好。

 

近十年來,拜酒評人的追捧,Giuseppe Rinaldi 已經成爲膜拜酒莊,堂兄弟 Francesco Rinaldi 反而乏人問津。

但我對 Giuseppe Rinaldi 的老酒總有點戒心,以前開過兩瓶 1961 都顔色很深,喝起來很像 Barbera。我懷疑是假冒的,曾經寫過信給酒莊,但一直沒有收到囘覆。

今天的 Rinaldi Giuseppe, Barolo Brunata, 1967 顔色也很深,多汁,明亮的紅果與酸度,令我想起 Altare 的 Larigi(單一園 Barbera),不過第二天的果味有了些勁度,有點  Nebbiolo 的影子。有人說以前流行在 Barolo 中混入一些 Barbera,究竟這瓶是否如此,我不大肯定。以後試試自己把酒莊的 Barolo 和 Barbera 混合來試試,看效果如何。

 

這瓶 Conterno Giacomo, Barolo Monfortino Riserva, 1961 是這次檢閲的大亮點,爲此我在 Facebook 寫了一篇報告,現原文錄下:

I was in a playful mood when I opened this 1961 Monfortino and found that my patience was rewarded with a clean bottle. Three previous bottles were all faulty and ended up in the kitchen sink, the last one ten years ago.

I poured two small glasses, and found the color to be light, which was “normal”, but the two differed greatly – the first one weak but the second one singing with dried roses half an hour later.

I was about to go out for lunch, and I decided to put to test what I had been theorizing. Why not start from the bottom half which should be more concentrated, as most the flavor elements had sunk to the bottom? I took out two empty ¼ bottles and decanted into them from the original bottle, so I was left with a little less than half a bottle for lunch, which was just right for two persons.

At the restaurant, I had to wait for the various elements to settle. Yes, I could find the dried roses, but it was buried under some mushroom like earthy flavors, and what was more prominent was the fruit, especially when I came to the bottom, with some sediments. It was almost too sweet! Should I say this is a beautiful wine in a “normal” way – I mean everything was there — fruit, minerals, flowers and certainly acidity. Monfortino when it is young is always like a Rebel Without A Cause – “black hole” is my favorite expression, but here it can be analyzed like any good wine. A perfect wine for a perfect lunch.

Come dinner time, and I could explore the two decanted bottles in the comfort of my home.

The first bottle was full of dried roses, gentle fruit and heightened acidity, and utterly transparent. That reminded me of a 1971 Bartolo in the right condition. In one word, ethereal.

The second bottle was dominated by sweet fruit of some density, with the dried roses in the background, and Rocche dell’Annunziata came to mind.

They could not be more different. My wife liked the second bottle, and I preferred the first.

I was expecting differences, but not that much, and not that distinct. I ended up deconstructing a 1961 Monfortino into three “movements” of a symphony: the First called “Flowers”, the Second “Fruit” and the third, the Finale, “The Song of the Earth”. In the Finale, everything was there, but at this stage of the development of the wine (and on the day we drank, which was a Fruit day), the earthy/mushroomy elements were the organizing principle, with the limelight on the fruit, and the flowers had the weakest voice. If we could somehow sift away most of the fruit and the earth, we would have more flowers, which was what happened in the First movement. And the Second Movement was when fruit almost engulfed the flowers.

I don’t know for sure, but I suspect all wines are the same, and the difference this time being that at an advanced age, the different components hung together more loosely and were more readily separated.

I found it amusing that three previous faulty bottles were now “replaced” by three different bottles ten years later. Not a bad deal.

這是我的第四瓶 1961 Monfortino,也是狀態完好的第一瓶。Monfortino 年輕的時候是個黑洞,到了老年才回復尋常百姓的本性,可以供我們賞玩。這次我意外的倚天抽寶劍,把他裁為三截,三截的成分同是花、果與菇,但强弱不一,變奏出不同的樂章。返老還童的 Monfortino 煞是可愛!

 

這瓶 Damilano, Barolo Cannubi, 1954 好得令我無話可説。今年一月我開過一瓶 1952,清純得驚人,彷如長江源頭的第一滴水。大江東去,混跡江湖一些日子後,1954 變得稍爲渾濁了,多了些塵世的複雜,既有香粉,也有菌菇,到了第二天,竟然有點火候,果、酸、菇都齊全。又是 Cannubi 的魔力嗎?抑或是有 Barbera 補藥所致?我不知道,只懂得學著天堂莊的 Florio,對大自然一切饋贈,都再三感恩。

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