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酒莊的第一個年份是 2006 年,Giulio 因為健康原因只為他們的頭兩個年份當了顧問。
我們去年找來這瓶處女作來品試,試後令我們大吃一驚。我在 漫步 Chianti (之五)﹕The First Bloom of Sangiovese 的一篇文章裏曾這樣描述﹕
我們很幸運找到他們的兩瓶處女作﹕2006 CC 和 2006 CCR,同樣是清新脫俗,迷人,難忘!CC 喝到第二天,與我們當天開的一瓶 2001 Giacosa Rabaja Riserva Red Label 比較,竟然並不遜色很多,真有點像一瓶 baby Rabaja。這個酒莊是我們今年最大的發現,前途無可限量!
如果 2006 年是我們去年的最大發現,那麼 2007 年有可能是今年的最大發現。我們剛試過 2007 ,原意是想了解這個比較熱的年份究竟表現如何,結果我們又一次大大吃驚。
La Porta di Vertine 像個新進的畫家,每次寫 Sangiovese 都有新意念。如果 2006 用的是印象派手法,那麼他們的 2007 已搖身一變而成為野獸派了。
兩瓶酒最特別之處是有種與很多 Chianti 不一樣的深度和密度,更像南部地區的 Brunello 或幾瓶頂級 Super Sangiovese 如 Cepparello 和 Percarlo。
這大概是 GiulioGambelli 監督下的最後一瓶 Sangiovese 吧?這瓶酒會不會是他的懸念?他與上帝閑聊他的種種凡間異聞的時候,會提起在 La Porta di Vertine 當釀酒師的 Giacomo Mastretta 嗎?
這兩瓶酒第一天都非常濃艷,CCR 相比更複雜一點,擺在我們面前的是兩碗熟透的紅櫻桃濃湯。他們的語言是直接的、自然的、平衡的,明顯是傳統製作的圓融感覺,有別于用法國小木桶、green harvesting 方法造的新派酒所帶來的爆炸感覺。新酒的 baby fat 常常令酒特別豐滿,但這兩瓶 2007 似乎比 2006 龐大得多,感覺有點像新酒在木桶裏還沒有入瓶時的那種活力。
豐滿而不失 Sangiovese 應有的優雅,這原來是酒莊所在地 Gaiole 一帶的特色,但我們在欣賞的是兩歲神童的作品,而且竟然連基本級別的 CC 也有這種勁度,這便極為罕見了。
一般的 Sangiovese 酒沒有 Nebbiolo 那麼耐放,所以我們通常一兩天內便把酒喝完。但這兩瓶酒豐滿得像油彩還沒有全乾的畫,吃驚之餘,我們便決定各留下半瓶在以後幾天再追蹤他們的發展。
這是兩座活火山,火焰多天仍未熄滅。他們到第 7 天才稍微的出現一點氧化的氣味,到了第 11 天,果味才明顯地開始衰退,但當時也只不過有少量的氧化跡象。
CC 在第 3 天的表現最好,有比較複雜的味道,新鮮而開放。CCR 則一直比 CC 緊閉,要到第 7 天才綻放,比 CC 的第 3 天更深和更有勁度。
這兩瓶酒引起我莫大的好奇。很詳細地看過酒莊的網誌後,我才開始明白這裏正在進行著一場靜默的革命(見﹕http://www.laportadivertine.it/en/home-2/)。
這其中起著最大作用的可能是釀酒師 Giacomo Mastretta。Giacomo來自Piedmont,但他的啟蒙導師可能是法國隆河區的 biodynamic 急先鋒Michel Chapoutier。
照片來源﹕http://www.laportadivertine.it/en/home-2/
酒莊說他們奉行的是「不干預政策」﹕“a great wine stems from a great vineyard, and therefore needs as little handling as possible”。有不少酒莊也信奉這種崇尚自然的哲學,但 Giacomo Mastretta 的特別之處是他嘗試把「不干預政策」推到極限。
我對釀酒的技術一竅不通,但從酒莊的網站也可以看出來他們的釀酒法有如下幾個特點﹕
1. 葡萄一般是去梗但不擠破皮的(destemmed but not crushed),這好像叫 whole berry fermentation;
2. 2007 CCR 有半缸是連梗放進發酵缸的,這好像是一些 Burgundy 酒莊如 DRC 慣常用的方法;
3. 發酵過程是沒有溫度控制的,這是 Monfortino 和 Soldera 才敢用的高風險方法;
4. 特長的浸皮階段,從 2006 年的兩個星期增加至 2007 年的 2-3 星期(CC)以致驚人的 65 天(CCR)!我好像沒有聽過用那麼長時間的浸皮的。
5. 發酵完成後,讓酒糟(lees)與酒繼續長期接觸,這個過程可以長達 10 個月。他們的解釋是這樣的﹕“the lees not only protect the wine in a natural way, but also adds a layer of complexity as well as richness”;又﹕“the fine lees enrich the wine with polysaccharides, mannoproteins and other big molecules that add viscosity and mouthfeel. At the same time the lees contact uses up oxygen, allowing for ultra low sulphur dioxide addition to the wine”;另外﹕“The philosophy behind the unusually long period of post fermentation maceration is to think of the tanks as a highly complex unity of skin, lees and wine. At first the skin contact is determinately extraction, whereas the following period is about the exchange between wine, skins, tannins and lees, adding richness and complexity to the final wine.”
這些技術性的描述我並不完全懂,但我的感覺是 Giacomo Mastretta 把葡萄奉若神明,他希望最原汁原味地把 Sangiovese 從大地吸收的一切精華完整地傳遞給我們。所以我上面說 Giacomo Mastretta 嘗試把「不干預政策」推到極限。
也因此他們的酒與別的酒感覺很不一樣。相對于其他的酒,我覺得他們像一件還沒有完成的作品。但新的 Monfortino 何嘗不是如此?
Giacomo Mastretta 會不會有一天成為 Sangiovese 世界的 Giacomo Conterno?(他們是同鄉)
這是個很多年以後才可以回答的問題,但我幾乎可以肯定 Giulio Gambelli 此刻在微笑。
我曾經問酒莊為什麼只跟 Giulio 合作了兩個年份,酒莊的人告訴我那是因為老人家的健康狀況,但她補充說﹕However, his input and spirit remains with us.
Grazie, Giulio!
照片來源﹕La Porta di Vertine
補記
以前寫過兩篇 Gambelli’s Children﹕
另外,Soldera 與 Montevertine 可以說是 Gambelli 最顯赫的兩位弟子,也是我自己最喜歡的 Tuscan 酒莊,以前曾有多篇文章介紹,可翻查。
美國一家入口商對La Porta di Vertine 有如下的介紹,可參考﹕
http://www.beekmanwine.com/sortofitalianred.htm
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico, 2006 ($24.99) & Chianti Classico Riserva, 2006 ($47.99) – Ten years from now this winery may rival Felsina, Fonterutoli, Fontodi, and Volpaia as the best of Chianti Classico. Right now it is in its infancy, a work in progress, but its potential is outstanding. The recent history of Porta di Vertine began in 2006 when Dan Lugosch, an American real estate developer with family ties to Italy, bought a house with a vineyard near Gaiole in Chianti in the secluded hamlet of Vertine. Unlike most rich newcomers to vineyard ownership, Dan chose not to hire an internationally renowned consultant wine maker. One can only conclude that the man is not primarily interested in producing a Super Tuscan to boost his ego. Passionate about Porta di Vertine in general and Sangiovese in particular, he hired enologist Giacomo Mastretta full time on this tiny estate. Mastretta, previously employed at Chapoutier in the Rhône and La Massa in Tuscany, was given total freedom to run the estate and to purchase additional vineyards. Inspired by his experience at Chapoutier, Mastretta follows strictly organic principles at La Porta di Vertine. The 2.5-hectare vineyard, baptized “Vertine,” sits on top of a series of rolling hills, forming a perfect amphitheater. The steep slope is bathed in sunlight well into the evening, which is why it is referred to as “Conca d’Oro” or golden shell. In addition to the Sangiovese, the vineyard included some Cabernet, Merlot, and Alicante Bouchet, but the AB was immediately grafted over to Sangiovese. Both wines saw extended maceration (skin in contact with the fermenting wine), minimal sulfites, and aging on the lees in traditional Slovenian oak casks as well as oval Austrian casks and double barriques. The Classico contains 5% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. Future vintages will be 100% Sangiovese. It has wonderful aromatics and very good fruit. It is a far more serious wine than most non-riservas and is well worth its price. The Riserva is from the best Sangiovese barrels and is simply stunning. Harmonious and complex, this joyful expression of Sangiovese was rated five stars by Decanter Magazine (“wonderful freshness on the nose, showing spicy fruit with incense, leather, and tobacco. Tangy finish of red cherries.”) and chosen as “Best of Vintage!” Go to www.laportadivertine.it for more information and pictures.
我本人越來越覺得易理解的紅酒不見得是上佳的紅酒
真正好的紅酒能帶給人感動 但必定需要更高的個人能力!!
這是意大利酒的可愛之處
[版主回覆02/27/2012 09:45:18]"你可真逗"!最近看電視劇學了這句北京土話,我想相當于廣東人說"你真搞笑!"。但認真的說,當酒莊不是市場寵兒的時候,便不需要理會酒評人對他的要求(Robert Parker 網站還沒有評這個莊),反而可以「自以為是」,做自己認為好的酒。這有點近乎藝術而不是製造業了!Blessed are the poor!
心大,昨晚跟朋友飲了Omanni CC 2008,很森林、泥土氣息,之前狂WINEFAIR試的時候已很喜歡,可惜還沒有代理商。而這個酒莊的,請問哪裡有售?
[版主回覆02/29/2012 07:58:21]可否再私人留言?
[Julian回覆02/29/2012 01:56:57]直接跟酒莊訂?可不是要訂很多及付很貴運費?
[版主回覆02/27/2012 09:35:40]我是直接從酒莊訂的。