2004 Brunello 的驚與喜

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2004 Brunello最早從 2009 年初開始登場,而 Riserva 則再晚一年開始推出。我從2009 年底開始用心試了 15 瓶評價比較好的酒,可以說沒有一瓶令人失望。但像爬山一樣,直到到今年年初得以品試 Soldera Biondi Santi Riserva 以後,我才可以說我終于看清楚這座山。


And what a great mountain


最難忘的有幾瓶。

 


首先是
Siro Pacenti 開瓶後 15 分鐘的香氣﹕典型 Sangiovese red cherries ,夾雜著類似 Rhone herbs and spices ,如噴泉般奔涌而出。她仿佛高調地代表 2004 向世人宣布﹕我來也!


論整體的表現,我最喜歡
Salvioni Poggio di Sotto Stella di Campalto

 


Salvioni
從來都是高頭大馬、丹寧厚重的,但 2004 卻盡顯嫵媚,成熟的果味蓋過一切,有時甜入心肺得幾乎令人疑是 liqueur

 


Poggio di Sotto
最迷人的是胭脂似的香氣(perfumed nose),體態如希臘女神披上輕紗。我的筆記稱她為 regal

 


最大的意外驚喜是
Stella di Campalto 的這瓶處女作。她有著 Poggio di Sotto 的影子,但更輕柔、更嬌嫩、更清甜,如出水芙蓉。將進酒,杯莫停!


這三瓶酒,可比作皇、后與公主,可以說是
Sangiovese Brunello 的極致表現, Soldera 卻兼具三者之長,而且更不止于此。

 


我這麼說,是因為在我追蹤
Soldera 的三天期間,他的基調雖然不變,一直維持著標誌性的輕盈體態weightless frame),但他的果味,卻從Stella di Campalto 的輕歌,先變成Poggio di Sotto 的成熟,最後則盛放如Salvioni ,釋放出一種 Soldera 特有的 intensity(見前作﹕The Unbearable Lightness of Intensity: Soldera)。 


這些都是
Soldera 的應有表現。但最令我驚奇的是他的香氣﹕頭一天剛下杯時我差點誤以為在我面前的是 Giacosa 2004 Asili ﹕一種我不知如何名狀的香氣(見前文﹕A Night in Birdland
),我現在乾脆稱之為 “Asili”


我搞不懂為什麼
2004 Brunello Barbaresco 有那麼驚人相似的地方﹕先是果味同樣豐滿,把丹寧幾乎完全收藏起來,然後是那種芬芳的“Asili” 香氣。


Antonio Galloni
在評論這個年份時曾說﹕

Like many parts of Italy, 2004 was an abundant vintage in Montalcino, as plants unleashed the energy they had held in reserve from the previous year.


想來也有道理﹕
2002 大雨,2003 奇熱,兩年都異常,葡萄憋了兩年,到 2004 年才得以釋放他所有的魅力。這麼說來,2004 不僅是普通的好年份,而是特異的年份。


也只有這些特異的原因,才可以解釋
Biondi Santi 的奇怪表現。

 


我是在開
Soldera 的同一時間開這瓶 Biondi Santi 的。開始的時候,他的香氣較野性﹕野花、香草類,也有種 perfume ,氣味並沒有 Soldera 來得那麼濃烈,但他的特色在于他的口感,令人覺得他有著龐大的體形,一種隱而未發的力量在蠢蠢欲動。如果 Soldera 陰柔如女性,則Biondi Santi 肯定是 macho 的。


過了足足
12小時我們正式下杯後,酒體慢慢經歷一種淨化,從粗野漸漸變得透明,雖然沒有 Soldera 那麼輕柔。打個比喻,如果 Soldera HB ,那末 Biondi Santi 大概是 3B 。但這時他的果味開始出來了,而且不斷膨脹,論 intensity Soldera 還要厲害得多! Soldera 第三天才變身為Salvioni ,但Biondi Santi 下杯兩個小時即已抵達,簡直像孫悟空!


可是到了第二天,
Soldera 繼續在直線發展,但Biondi Santi 卻變得有點緊閉,酸度略高。第三天我們沒有踫他,等到第四天再試,他已經變成另一瓶難以辨認的酒﹕活力沒有了,果味大大消退了,酸度卻大大提高得不能喝!莫非皇上入睡了?


Biondi Santi
從來不是好惹的,差不多兩年前我便領教過了(見﹕My brother Brunello: 仰望 Biondi Santi),所以這次我不再感到意外。


我學會了感恩。如果不是
2004 這特異的天氣,我那裏有機會一睹皇上年青時風華正茂的神采!雖然稍縱即逝,但我已心滿意足,因為﹕ Life is beautiful but fleeting

 


我在兩年前的文章裏提過,美國人(包括
Antonio Galloni )從來對Biondi Santi 沒有興奮過,但意大利人或精神上的意大利人卻把Biondi Santi 奉若神明。


意大利很有名的
Gambero Rosso 的主編 Daniele Cernilli 便給他的 2004 Riserva 打了滿分,他的評語如下﹕


I was lucky enough to have a preview tasting of the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 Biondi Santi. It seemed magnificent version to me, worth of the best ones, and if it will resist the passing of time – as I’m pretty sure it will – it will recall us the glory days of ’55 and ’64. It has a vivid ruby garnet color, just a bit more concentrated than I expected. Scents are classic Brunello, with notes of black cherry and tobacco in the foreground, but also hints of blackcurrant and rhubarb complete a wide and strong olfactory spectrum. I think there are the right conditions for a very interesting outsourcing, not as balmy as in ’75, but with smoked hints as in ’55 and ‘ 83. In the palate it has an extractive sweetness which tampons the tannic vigor, still present but not overcoming the limits imposed by elegance. No bitter aftertaste, indeed, but sweet and hot notes that accompany in a very long finale. A rich but elegant and typical wine, a reference point for the next Brunello di Montalcino releases, which summarizes a great territorial coherence with a rare elegance. Therefore I dare to give a 100/100 rating to an Italian wine.

The 2004 Reserve really hit me in my soul. Not only it is a great wine, but it is something you can’t really do without once you’ve tasted it. I’m not usually moved by things around me, and I taste so many wines that I have to stay a little bit detached in the end. But from an old passionate as I am, when I drink wines like that I still feel excited like a beginner. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have written about it on the forum.


英國的
Decanter 雜誌也給這瓶酒打了 20/20 的滿分,評語如下﹕

Biondi Santi’s 04 Riserva scores a perfect 20/20. Breathtaking, reminiscent of Majestic 1975 Riserva. Intense, earthy aromas with a hint of iris and leather. Mouthwatering cherry with elegant tannins. Impeccably balanced, mesmerizing depth.


我自己不太肯定,因為我只喝過
1982 1985 1999 2004 四個年份。我想我會把 Biondi Santi 放在一個名叫 Mystics 的特殊類別,目前只有他一位居于此。所以最高也是他,最低也是他。人家對他的高低爭議不休,想來是沒有搞明白這個簡單的道理。


這個世界絕對容納得下多一打這樣的 Mystic ,我想。

5 則評論在 2004 Brunello 的驚與喜.

  1. Soldera's 2004 is monumental! I cannot agree more.
    [版主回覆03/22/2011 22:46:00]Unspeakable beauty for the beholder.

  2. Biondi Santi 的 Res真的很難服待! 太新的唔敢掂!!我只喝過70,81.83.87.93 ,95
    [版主回覆03/29/2011 10:09:00]Romanee-Conti 鬥不過 Biondi-Santi ,奇聞!但認真的說,那一瓶最難忘?

  3. 70 啦.變化多端,返老環童.
    [版主回覆03/29/2011 10:49:00]'70 我還沒敢開,等道行高一點才踫吧。

  4. I am tasting the Argiano Brunello 2004. Quite a typical taste of Sant' Angelo, it is quite close in the first day! But seems it has a lot of capacity to develope. Let's see in these few days!
    [版主回覆04/03/2011 14:03:00]My impression of their Brunello is that of a well made wine of very good value but seldom outstanding.  Used to love their Solengo, but nowadays their pure Sangiovese "Suolo" is the one that I really long to try.  

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