意大利的酒中貴族

最近找到兩本介紹意大利酒的好書，一老一新。

新出的一本是很實用的 The ECCO Guide to the Best Wines of Italy，作者 Ian D’Agata 是意大利人，有三十年品評意大利酒的經驗。口味主要是傳統的、本土的，甚合我的心意。

書的主體是多個不同題材的「酒單」，最重要的是「價格在 $100 美元下的最佳意大利酒」，包括紅酒 100 種、汽酒 15種、白酒 60種和甜酒 25 種。

最佳 100 種紅酒中的頭 25 種中有9 種以 Sangiovese 為主﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
1	97	Il Poggione	Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
5	96	Antinori	Tignanello
7	96	San Giusto a Rentennano	Percarlo
9	95	Felsina	Fontalloro
11	95	Frescobaldi	Chianti Rufina “Montesodi”
12	95	Fontodi	Flaccianello delle Pieve
14	95	Isole e Olena	Cepparello
15	95	Livio Sassetti – Pertimali	Brunello di Montalcino
25	94	Badia a Coltibuono	Chianti Classico Riserva

Piedmont 區有 5 瓶入榜﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
2	97	Bruno Rocca	Barbaresco “Rabaja”
3	97	Giacomo Conterno	Barolo “Cascina Francia”
10	95	Domenica Clerico	Barolo “Ciabot Mentin Ginestra”
13	95	Marchesi di Gresy	Barbaresco “Martinenga”
21	94	Bartolo Mascarello	Barolo

Amarone 有一瓶﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
20	94	Roccolo Grassi	Amarone “Vigneto Roccolo Grassi”

Sangiovese、Barolo/Barbaresco 與 Amarone 三大意大利名酒共佔了六成（15瓶），選得既合理也中肯。唯一問題是 Giacomo Conterno的 Barolo “Cascina Francia” 相信 $100 不容易買得到。

其餘的 10 瓶中，以國際葡萄品種（Bordeaux blend）為主的佔兩瓶﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
4	97	Il Macchiole	Paleo
18	94	Grattamacco	Grattamacco Rosso

來自南部 Basilicata 省，以100% Aglianico 釀造的佔了兩瓶。值得找來試試！

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
17	95	Elena Fucci	Aglianico del Vulture Titolo
22	94	Cantine del Notaio	Aglianico del Vulture “La Firma”

另兩瓶也是從南部 Puglia 來的，同樣以100% Negroamaro 釀造﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
6	95	Agricole Vallone	Graticciaia
24	94	Cosimo Taurino	“Patriglione”

來自意大利最大的 Sicily 島，並以 Nero d’Avola 為主的有以下兩瓶﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
16	95	Feudo Montoni	Nero d’Avola Selezione Speciale “Vrucara”
23	94	Donnafugata	“Mille e Una Notte”

意大利第二大島Sardinia有一瓶以Cannonau 為主的酒（Cannonau 是意大利版Grenache）﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
19	95	Argiolas	Turriga

最後一瓶，是中部 Abruzzo 地區用 Montepulciano 釀造的酒﹕

Rank	Score	Wine producer	Wine
8	95	Zaccagnini	Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ” San Clemente “

後面的八瓶，來自一般重量不重質的省份（以南部為主），地雷很多，但這正是此書最大的價值所在。

書中另有一章選了 25 瓶「名氣酒」（cult wines）。不僅價錢貴，好的年份也特別難找得到。

Bordeaux blend 的 Super Tuscans 佔了幾近一半，另 Barolo 與 Barbaresco 佔三分之一。Bruno Giacosa 共有三瓶上榜，是最多「名氣酒」的酒庄，應該算實至名歸。

Rank	Type	Wine producer	Wine	Vintages
1	Piedmont	Bruno Giacosa	Barolo “Vigna Rionda”	1971,1978,1982
13	Piedmont	Bruno Giacosa	Barbaresco “Santo Stefano” Riserva	1971,1982,1978,1988,1989,1990
16	Piedmont	Bruno Giacosa	Barolo “Le Rocche del Falletto” Riserva	2001
3	Piedmont	Giacomo Conterno	Barolo Monfortino	1967,1982,1985
14	Piedmont	Roberto Voerzio	Barolo “Brunate”
15	Piedmont	Luciano Sandrone	Barolo “Cannubi Boschis”	1990,1985,1989
17	Piedmont	Aldo Conterno	Barolo “Granbussia” Riserva	1989,1990,1985,1982
18	Piedmont	Gaja	Langhe Rosso “Sori Tildin”	1982,1985
19	Piedmont	Gaja	Langhe Rosso “Sori San Lorenzo”	1985,1990

4	Sangiovese	Case Basse Soldera	Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	1983,1982
25	Sangiovese	Avignonesi	Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice

6	Amarone	Dal Forno	Amarone	trophy wine
7	Amarone	Quintarelli	Amarone	1979; any vintage

2	Bordeaux blend	Tenuta San Guido	Sassicaia	1985,1988,1990
5	Bordeaux blend	Ornellaia	“Masseto”	1999
21	Bordeaux blend	Ornellaia	“Ornellaia”	1997,1998,1988
8	Bordeaux blend	Tua Rita	“Redigaffi”	2001,2004
9	Bordeaux blend	Le Macchiole	“Messorio”	2001,2004,1997,1998
11	Bordeaux blend	Le Macchiole	“Scrio”	2003,2004
10	Bordeaux blend	Antinori	“Solaia”	1985,1978,1997,1998,2001
12	Bordeaux blend	Tenuta di Trinoro	“Tenuta di Trinoro”	2001,1998,1999,2003
20	Bordeaux blend	Montevetrano	“Montevetrano”	1997,1995,2005
22	Bordeaux blend	Castello di Ama	L’Apparita	1987,1992
23	Bordeaux blend	Castello dei Rampolla	Vigna d’Alceo
24	Bordeaux blend	Principe Ludovisi Boncompagni	Fiorano	No longer made

另一本很有名但已斷版的書是美國酒評人Sheldon Wasserman 夫婦合著的 Italy’s Noble Red Wines，1985年初版。在法國雄霸美酒的年代，這對夫妻卻像考古歷史家一樣，把意大利的酒中貴族公諸于世。書雖然舊，但要找意大利歷史名酒的酒庄與年份的資料，它依然是最好的。

我尤其愛讀他們對一些釀酒大師的介紹。 Piedmont 大師中，Wasserman 最欣賞的大概是 Bruno Giacosa 與 Bartolo Mascarello。

對 Bruno Giacosa 他是這樣寫的﹕

“A man of few words but eloquent talent, Giacosa has the ability to bring out a richness of flavor and an intensity of character in his wines, producing wines of meditation. The man is an artist.”

他如此描述 Bartolo Mascarello ﹕

“Bartolo’s wines are the epitome of balance, harmony, style, elegance, distinction, and character. Like his father’s wines before them, every bottle is a wine of meditation.”

他對 Chianti 著墨遠比 Brunello di Montalcino 多，而且對 Chianti 的不同區域產什麼風格的酒有很好的分析，這也是我頭一次看到的。

Wasserman 最推崇Chianti 的Monsanto 酒庄，尤其是產自 Il Poggio 葡萄園的Chianti Classico Riserva。

“It is in our considerable experience without question the single finest Chianti and one of the world’s vinicultural treasures … It is simply in a class by itself … the epitome of what a Classico can be … This is a wine for contemplation.”

Wasserman 最推許的Brunello di Montalcino 酒庄有三個﹕Altesino，Costanti 與Il Poggione（同樣拿4分滿分），今天仍然是上好的酒庄。有趣的是﹕Biondi-Santi 只拿兩分，因為質量不穩定。 Case Basse 拿三分，可能因為當時歷史尚短。

10 則評論在意大利的酒中貴族.

Quintarelli
Amarone any vinatge is good !@!!!
[版主回覆07/02/2009 17:10:00]Which one(s) did you have? I had a 1998 earlier this year, but it was too young. Like rare paintings, these are so hard to find.

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Very informative. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Wines of Mastroberardino & Paternoster in southern Italy are quite enjoyable too.
[版主回覆07/02/2009 23:06:00]Sure! Mastroberadino's Taurasi Riserva "Radici" from Campania is of course a classic and excellent value too. It ranks 34th in D'Agata's list of red wines mentioned above. Paternoster's "Don Anselmo" is 40th. That's why I think this is a good guide, with both breadth and depth. Thanks for your comments.

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我飲過一些Allegrini既酒,覺得幾好,但對我來說貴了點,請問她的另一平民品牌Corte Giara既酒例如Armone質素如何?

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Sorry, I mean Amarone
[版主回覆07/03/2009 11:47:00]Sorry I had no experience with Corte Giara. My experience with Amarone has so far been extremely limited, as I generally do not go for very strong bodied wines. What I can say is this: as with most Italian fine wines, a lot of the time it really depends on your personal taste, whether it is for more traditional style (long maceration and aging in big oak casks) or more modern style (short maceration and barrique aging). I go for a more traditional style, and therefore is no fan of Allegrini and Tommaso Bussola. Bertani and Quintarelli would be my glasses of wine. Suggest you try both a traditional and a modern producer, to see which style you prefer. As Amarones are wines for long-term aging, would be best to find an older vintage to try.

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Oh….i kill one…99…..
[版主回覆07/03/2009 11:50:00]A '99 could kill anyone … it's so over powering.

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Thank you for the useful advice. I was just given to know that the vinification disparity between traditional and modern producers also exists in making Amarone as it does for Barolo. A long footpath ahead for me to follow you guys.
[版主回覆07/03/2009 14:36:00]Landmines and relative lack of predictability are what make Italian wine fun! Sounds like Burgundy, heh? Enjoy the ride!

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ladmine but always give you surprise !
[版主回覆07/04/2009 11:19:00]That's a good one!

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There are just so many brilliant Italian Wines yet in HK, few people be like you to dig into them. Another great post indeed, thanks for sharing!
[版主回覆07/04/2009 11:05:00]It's like a long journey that has no end in sight once started. I've sent away most of my French bottles for outside storage now!

Glad that you like it!

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well…I may have to take away some of my Bdx wines and trade them for Italian! But no way I would give up my Bougogne!!
[版主回覆07/04/2009 11:18:00]Makes me want to open a Bordeaux! Burg is still miles and miles away. I know I can't indulge in one more passion, not now!

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(Empty)

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心無罣礙 – 抱青

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10 則評論在意大利的酒中貴族.

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