VIPa-6 第 22 場 — Miani Again

生物動力曆法﹕2018 9 13 日下午 7 時開始

三個月前新人組試 Monprivato 的一場以 Miani, Tocai Friulano Buri, 2009 作開場,一位朋友說非常好奇想試試 Miani,我便策劃了這次專場,離上次試 Miani 竟然已有四年之久(見:VIPa-2 第七場—重訪 Miani)。

四年前我對白酒不甚了了,但從旁聼朋友的討論也聽得津津有味。經過萬巢之山與天堂莊的洗禮,今天我對白與氣泡酒都更有感覺了,可是就在試酒會的前兩天,一位認識多年的朋友在新疆旅行時遇到頗嚴重的意外,令我這次未能集中精神試酒,只好委托一位在座的 WSET 導師幫我寫筆記,因此這篇報告用的是 J 兄的筆記,我凴記憶在旁補充了我的一些想法。

 

我一共選了 五白一紅,並臨時加了一瓶 Prosecco:

(Prosecco)Casa Coste Piane, Glera IGT “Brichet”

0. Miani, Chardonnay Baracca, 2012

1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012

2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 2012

3. Miani,Tocai Friulano Buri,2009

4. Miani,Tocai Friulano Filip,2009

5. Miani, Merlot Buri, 2009

6. Miani, Calvari Colli Orientali Friuli, 2006

兩款紅酒在一天前開瓶,所有白在當天早上 8 時開,之後拔塞作瓶醒。3. Miani,Tocai Friulano Buri,2009 有點老態,我在下午 2 時左右加開了一瓶。

Casa Coste Piane, Glera IGT “Brichet” 是與別不同的 Prosecco,Loris Follador 喜歡用從老籐提煉出 Glera 的原始和天然的風味,年初時的一瓶 Casa Coste Piane, Prosecco Valdobbiadene 驚艷無比。Brichet 好像是租來的田,半年前的一瓶非常精彩,喝到第四天花日爆花香,滿是果與礦物味,今天即開即喝卻有點凌亂的感覺。你說我迷信也好,這是受了傷的 Casa Coste Piane。

朋友的筆記:

Nose: some white flowers, pear, apple and a hint of yeasty aromas. On palate, crispy with good acidity and a hint of sweetness. Bubbles are delicate and creamy. This version is simple and enjoyable with less complexity as compared to the magnum Prosecco Valdobbiadene tasted in January this year.

 

接著是單一葡萄園的 0. Miani, Chardonnay Baracca, 2012

與四年前的 2009 一樣,有人也認爲他喝起來像 Meursault。

第一回合:Nose is pronounced with ripe stone fruit (peach, apricot), some tropical fruit, sweet and toasty oak aromas. On palate, a bit fatty and oily due to higher serving temperature, acidity is medium and some mineral and bitter almond flavours in aftertaste. Has similarity to a Meursault from warm vintage (someone mentioned Lafon) or even a Chardonnay from Napa Valley in my view. Decided to chill it a bit for Round 2.

第二回合:Showing more acidity, minerality and fitness after lowing the serving temperature but the oak is still prominent and become smokier therefore not favored by the participants.

我的感覺:桶味太過分了!

 

第一雙令大家恢復了信心,對我來説,也是整晚的亮點所在。

簡單說,Sauvignon 立體,Ribolla Pettarin 有禪意。

第一回合:

1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012

A bit pungent nose of herbaceous (green bell pepper), apple, peach, apricot with a more subtle nutty and toasty oak flavor. On palate, it is well balanced with complexity of all the above-mentioned flavors and a crispy long finish with good acidity and minerality. 

2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 2012

Quite subtle nose of floral, green and yellow fruits and a hint of nutty and savouriness. On palate, it is very balanced and harmonized (圓融) with all the flavours meld together seamlessly. The finish is very long! 

三款酒一起投票,由 1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012 以 6 票僅勝 2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 2012 的 5 票。

第二回合

1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012

Nose becomes less pungent and the oak flavors more integrated and the body of the wine shows more roundness. More floral and herbal aromas showing up. A great SB with depth, structure and complexity and ageing potential! 

2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 2012

Nose opens up further showing white flowers, yellow fruits and a hint of honey and nuts. The palate is smooth and savoury with lingering finish. Not a very eye-catching wine that you may fall in love at first sip but you will find more nuances with each sip. Very Zen in style and a wine for meditation.

這回合 1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012 以 8 票大大領先,2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 2012 只得 3 票。原來大部分人拿 Miani 的這款 Sauvignon Blanc 與其他地區的同一品種比較,直認爲他是世界上最出色的一兩款之一,這恰恰也是 Ian d'Agata 的意見:“The Sauvignon Blancs especially are so pure, precise and concentrated they are absolutely like nothing else you’ll taste from anywhere else in the world. In my books, only Didier Daugueneau comes up with something similar, or close.”

對我來説,Miani 的 Ribolla Pettarin, 2012 第一次打動了我。他的作品大多是華麗的,只有這款沒有匠氣,他透著一種 understated elegance,我叫他做禪意。或許我今天渴望安詳和平靜?

 

最後兩款白來自同一葡萄園的兩塊田 — Buri 的名字來自葡萄園所在地的 Buttrio 鎮,而 Filip 取自這裏原來的農戶 Filippo 家族的名字。Buri 含的黏土比 Filip 較多,所以酒體比較豐厚,我們的確可以嘗到 Buri 的環肥和 Filip 的燕瘦:

第一回合

3. Miani,Tocai Friulano Buri,2009

(下午開的一瓶)Uncorked in the afternoon. With less time of breathing, the nose of the wine is quite closed. On palate, it is tight with fruits hiding under the acidity and mineral flavors. Look forward to Round 2.

(早上開的一瓶)Over-developed with the nose a bit dull with savoury and vegetal aromas (someone mentioned sugar cane juice). The palate is better than the nose. The body is richer and rounder than Wine 3 and balanced by good acidity and mineral saltiness.

4. Miani,Tocai Friulano Filip,2009

It is purer (通透) and fresher and has a more opened-up nose as compared to Wine 3. The palate is rounder. It has ripe apricot and a hint of honey flavors. The acidity and minerality are less sharp and steely than Wine 3 and they are well balanced with the fruit of the wine. Long finish.

第二回合

3. Miani,Tocai Friulano Buri,2009

(下午開的一瓶)Nose opens up with yellow apple, white flower, fennel and mineral notes. On palate, the fruits show up but the structure of the wine is still tight with high acidity and mineral saltiness. May need more time for it to fully open up

(早上開的一瓶)The nose becomes a bit cleaner and the body rounder but the overall style hasn’t changed. The wine tasted a bit older and not fresh although still drinking quite well.

4. Miani,Tocai Friulano Filip,2009

Maintaining its style and drinking beautifully in Round 2. Overall, it is more approachable and enjoyable than Wine 3 at the moment.

兩回合都由 4. Miani,Tocai Friulano Filip,2009 以大比數勝出(9 分與 8 分)。有趣的是有人覺得略顯老態的 3. Miani,Tocai Friulano Buri,2009 也蠻好喝的。

通過比較,發現 Ribolla Gialla 與 Friulano 兩品種一陰一陽,十分有趣;再加上兩款國際葡萄,四款白彷如同一片土地的四個代言人,不同的演繹各有各精彩,足以證明這確是塊寶地,正如 Antonio Galloni 所言:

Over the last few years I have become convinced that Buttrio holds some of the noblest terroirs in northern Italy for fine, world-class whites and reds. Sadly, the number of growers who are maximizing the potential of these superb sites is but a handful. 

 

最後是兩款紅。

Antonio Galloni 曾高度讚譽他這款 Merlot:“I consider the Merlot Buri to be one of the most profound expressions of Merlot on the planet.”

至於他的單一葡萄園 Refosco Calvari,Galloni 如此說:“Calvari is made from Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, an indigenous Friulian red grape that in Pontoni's hands scales heights previously thought to be unimaginable.”

結果大多數朋友似乎都有名過於實之嘆,我自己反而覺得他們都很出色,與其他白酒都見證了 Enzo Pontoni 了不起的才華。兩款酒都像五味架,果、酸與礦物味在那麽龐大的酒體裏可以漆黑得牛馬不辨,也可以在打架,徒增凌亂的感覺,但我們面前的卻複雜而融和, Calvari 更非常鮮活。不,這不是我的口味,但我可以欣賞他們的宏偉 — monumental。Pontoni 出身是個工程師,我懂了!

第一回合

5. Miani, Merlot Buri, 2009

Pronounced nose of licorice, mocha, chocolate, ripe plum, blackberry and cherry, mint and sweet oak. On palate, full body, creamy texture, medium acidity, luscious. The rich palate is well balanced by the mineral and mint flavors which still indicate the wine originating from a cool climate region.

6. Miani, Calvari Colli Orientali Friuli, 2006

Very attractive nose of black and red cherries, raspberry, violet, leather and spicy herbs. The oak is well integrated and doesn’t stand out. On palate, powerful with high acidity and mouth-coating ripe tannins. It is a wine with focus and intensity and a long mineral finish.

It is a real Italian wine! 

第二回合

5. Miani, Merlot Buri, 2009

Tasted a bit drier and showing more structure and tannins. The only criticism from me is that the acidity could be a bit higher and fresher but considering 2009 is a hot vintage, it is not easy…  Overall, the wine can still maintain its balance without being too jammy due to its mineral flavors.    

6. Miani, Calvari Colli Orientali Friuli, 2006

Showing more floral noses, elegancy and depth. More tannins to attack on the palate but never rustic. This is a great wine with great potential for further ageing.

兩回合都由 6. Miani, Calvari Colli Orientali Friuli, 2006 以大比數勝出(8 分與 10 分)。

Wine of the Night

得第一名的是 1. Miani, Sauvignon, 2012,得 5 票。

2. Miani, Ribolla Pettarin, 20126. Miani, Calvari Colli Orientali Friuli, 2006 並列第二名,各得 2 票。

後記

Enzo Pontoni 不是我那杯酒,最簡單的原因是他太新派,太工匠,太完美了。

他令我想起兩個人。

首先是 Soldera。兩個原來都是別的行業裏的專業人士(保險與工程),都用一種品質至上的態度來釀酒,他們追求一種完美,而且成就都比同儕高出很多很多。

另一位是同樣來自 Friuli 的 Josko Gravner。有趣的是 Enzo 在他父親 Nello 於 1989 年去世後才回家改種葡萄,那時候 Gravner 正在思考他熟悉的現代釀酒技巧有什麽不對勁。他兩年前在加州試了超過一千款酒以後,心裏產生一種危機感,引他的話:

"I was totally disillusioned," he says. "I said to my wife: 'I'm sick of these conventional wines. They are moving in the opposite direction to that of safeguarding the soil and the authenticity of the product.'"

過了幾年,他返璞歸真,仿效 Georgia 的遠古方法,採用紅陶罐釀出今天稱之為橙酒(orange wine)的另類酒。

他們在尋找,你與我呢?

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