VIPa-12 第 5 場 — Burlotto’s 2019 Horizontal and More

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生物動力曆法﹕2024 年 4 月 29 日下午 7 時開始  –

組織:Heave

報告:抱青

去年那場 2018 Burlotto 記憶猶新(見:VIPa-11 第 2 場 — The Enigma of Burlotto’s 2018 Barolo),今年 Heave 又安排了一場 2019 橫品,我們 4 月囘香港一下飛機便趕去出席。這次的酒更多,因爲有好幾款酒安排了 2018 與 2019 的對比。真要感謝 Heave 的用心。

想去年那場令我對 2018 年份產生了莫大興趣,說老實話我不明白酒評人爲何評得那麽高分。我還特別買了多個名莊的酒,準備做一場 2018 橫品,但一直找不到時間。終於趁這次囘香港也做了,報告我會接著寫。

地球暖化後的新常態是極端。2017 奇熱,2018 多雨,2019 鐘擺又回來了,可説是個經典年份。Galloni 打了 95+ 分(2018 是 85 分),是近年最晚收的年份之一:

The 2019s are potent, tightly wound Barolos that will thrill readers who appreciate the nuance, subtlety and structure of Nebbiolo. Well-timed rain helped temper summertime heat, leading to one of the latest harvests of recent years. Today, the 2019s show elements of youthful austerity that at times recall vintages such as 2016, 2005 and 1999. The only thing 2019 lacks is some of the visceral excitement found in the very best years, although the top wines certainly check all the boxes. (01/23, AG)

是晚酒單如下:

Champagne Rare Millesimi 2008
Burlotto GB, Langhe Sauvignon, 2018
1. Burlotto GB, Pelaverga, 2021
2. Burlotto GB, Barbera d’Alba Aves, 2021
3. Burlotto GB, Langhe Mores, 2019
4. Burlotto GB, Langhe Nebbiolo, 2020
5. Burlotto GB, Barolo, 2018
6. Burlotto GB, Barolo, 2019
7. Burlotto GB, Barolo Acclivi, 2018
8. Burlotto GB, Barolo Acclivi, 2019
9. Burlotto GB, Barolo Monvigliero, 2018
10. Burlotto GB, Barolo Monvigliero, 2019
11. Burlotto GB, Barolo Castelletto, 2019
12. Burlotto GB, Barolo Cannubi, 2019

開場酒有兩支:

Champagne Rare Millesimi 2008:下飛機後,我匆忙去酒窖開箱抓了一支 Rare 便衝去酒樓,箱子標的是 1997 年。下杯後我正奇怪 1997 怎麽酸度那麽好,看清楚酒標原來是經典年份 2008!毫不奇怪還沒完全打開,但那綿密的細節也充分展露出他的複雜度,好喝!

Burlotto GB, Langhe Sauvignon, 2018 是 Arthur 帶來的,香港的代理商沒有進貨。打開得非常好,深度與寬度(voluminous)都具備,帶漂亮的礦物氣息,但最重要的是一種溫文爾雅的氣質,那明明是 Verduno 的。意白從沒令我失望過。

1. Burlotto GB, Pelaverga, 2021 輕盈,一貫的清新可喜。

2. Burlotto GB, Langhe Nebbiolo, 2020 去年出現過,當時我這麽描述:

晶瑩剔透,閉起眼來會令人誤以爲是玫瑰水,帶些灰燼似的礦物與草藥氣息,通透得如萬里晴空,但隱隱有種張力。原來那年酒莊決定不推出 Acclivi,把那幾塊田的葡萄全混進去這款 Langhe Nebbiolo 了。第二回合變得豐滿了,更甜,但反而不妙,不過這是成長必經之途,怪不得。

拜他的出身好,今年長了些肌肉,完全不晶瑩剔透了。去年沒來的朋友有三位很贊嘆,令他在評分時得到一個第一,兩個第二。但我始終覺得他長肌肉之餘,沒有足夠的結構,顯得有點散亂。不過那可能是年份的關係。2020 在收時節下過雨,酒體偏薄,因此 Fabio 才決定把 Acclivi 降格為 Langhe Nebbiolo。

3. Burlotto GB, Barbera d’Alba Aves, 2021 是令大家眼前一亮的一顆黑珍珠,跟一般的那種帶塑料氣味、入口如瓶裝果汁的 Barbera 很不一樣。完全不果汁感,主角是礦物味,但妙在並非壓倒性的礦物感,而是與其他元素很融合,與剛才那款 Sauvignon 同出一轍。原來這是酒莊的特選款 Barbera,選自最好和最老的葡萄園,只在上佳的年份釀造。

4. Burlotto GB, Langhe Mores, 2019 卻不是我的那杯酒。Nebbiolo 與 Barbera 的混釀從來都很難討好,有點非驢非馬的感覺。

 

接下來是四對 Barolo。先來基本款。

2018 是去年的第二名,去年勝在整合得好,不過感覺頗甜。今天沒有這個問題。兩個年份的底色都是些烟草與泥土的香氣,礦物感令酒沒有去年那麽單一。

兩者相比,2019 好太多了。2018 比較肥胖,較簡單;2019 結構大,深度好,此刻由礦物味主導。2019 的確是個經典年份,我在杭州喝過幾款基本版的表現也非常出色。

 

跟著是 Acclivi 兩個年份的對壘。

去年的 Acclivi 雖然是 WOTN,我是有微言的:“最有花香,比 Barolo 通透但因此容易露餡 — 丹寧過分突出”。今年所見,表現好多了,首先比基本款 Barolo 高出不止一綫,很開放,方方面面都有充分的表現,很難挑剔了。

20192018 又要高了一個頭,2018 有的他都有,但更多一點,更深入一點。

 

眾所期待的 Monvigliero 出場了。謝謝 Oscar 拿出他珍藏的 2018

去年我說 “這款酒特有的「異域奇香」都被濃濃的果味掩蓋了”。今年這異香也無跡可尋(雖然有人說 2019 好一些),不過好處是不會什麽都被果味掩蓋了。剛相反,兩款都蠻害羞的,很多東西都躲起來了,令丹寧顯得特別厲害。2018 今天好些,起碼通透些。

看來要等待。

最後我們走出 Verduno。

12. Burlotto GB, Barolo Cannubi, 2019 感覺很擁擠,好像很多人擠在個小房子的感覺, Cannubi 特有的質地感(texture)我找不到,丹寧蠻厲害的。

11. Burlotto GB, Barolo Castelletto, 2019 豐滿而圓潤,丹寧順滑,有趣的是我在 12. Cannubi, 2019 找不到的質地感卻在這裏出現了,莫非 Castelletto 是帶著 Monforte 深度的 Cannubi?

Wine of the Night

今晚 11 位朋友投了票選自己最喜歡的頭三名,游戲賽果如下:

第一名:8. Burlotto GB, Barolo Acclivi, 2019(加權 19 分);

第二名:7. Burlotto GB, Barolo Acclivi, 2018(加權 16 分);

第三名:10. Burlotto GB, Barolo Monvigliero, 2019(加權 12 分)

仍然是 Acclivi!我自己選了 Langhe Sauvignon, 2018 為第一名, Barbera d’Alba Aves, 2021 為第二名,原因是這兩款令我驚喜,是我想買來喝的。所有 Nebbiolo 酒款都是水準之作,Acclivi 四平八穩,但問我特別出色嗎,也不見得。畢竟 Barolo 的世界太大了,可選的酒太多,要找到令人驚喜的著實不容易。

後記

與去年一樣,我在試酒會後向莊主 Fabio Alessandria 報告了試酒會的經過和我們對這些酒的評價。講完了酒的表現以後,我忍不住提出一個憋在我心裏很久的意見(或猜想):

Before leaving, I’d tell you a very personal opinion.  I have problems with Monvigliero from the 2013 vintage onwards.  The problem is I compared them with previous vintages which were first astounding, and then lovely, but mostly because they have a strong character.  So strong a character that people tend to have a very strong opinion about it: in a vertical that I hosted several years ago, people either love it like crazy, or fail to appreciate it at all.

That was in 2018. Your 2008 won by a big margin (28 pts), followed by 2012 (14 pts).  The 2013 did not make it to the top 3 (the 3rd was Fratelli Alessandria’s 1998).

(見:VIPa-6 第 9 場 — Monvigliero)

I am speculating that the warming climate may be the ultimate reason.

Another mystery is Bruno Giacosa.  Galloni blamed the departure of Dante, or Bruna.  But Dante returned.  Whatever people’s praise of 2016, I found it has lost that lovely ethereal character of 2004, early after release.

I once thought that 2016 was an even-tempered vintage like 2004, but last night, in the depth of speculating about Monvigliero, I suddenly had this eureka: the weather we had in the early 2000’s won’t come back again!

Fabio 回了我他的看法:

I don’t think it’s a problem of the weather….the weather is changing and it will continue to change but Monvigliero for me continues to have his personality

Honestly in 2018 vintage I really  like Monvigliero

Now I prefer Monvigliero ’18 than ’19 even if in the future probably the ’19 will be better

我想我聽懂他的意思。之後我們又做了有趣討論:

我:

I think I am in complete agreement with you.  You expressed it so much more accurately than me.  The weather continues to change, from time immemorial, and this certainly leaves its mark on any wine.  But at the same time, Monvigliero (or Falletto) is always there.  I was just too nostalgic for those days when the wines were more transparent and delicate, and shall I say, “light but deft”, as Matt Kramer described Chambolle Musigny  so accurately.

Fabio:

The strange thing is that with the weather change I feel that Nebbiolo in some vintages is becoming very delicate and gentle

我:

Agree.  Extreme, but I suspect delicate is less often?

Fabio:

Certainly with more fruit but with more gentle supple approaches

Nebbiolo is changing in a different way than Pinot in burgundy

In a good or bad way

我:

Agree

My limited experience tells me Neb does better

Fabio:

Pinot in burgundy is becoming more muscular

Nebbiolo more gentle less tannic

Depending on the personal tastes this could be good or bad

Stephen Wong:

To me, Pinot is closer to Sangiovese than Nebbie.  When too much heat, got swollen

Fabio:

More dark in color and swollen

Agree

Nebbiolo is becoming lighter, slightly more fruity and gentler

我:

We agree much more than disagree.  It’s the use of words that sometimes confuses

So glad to have this conversation with you.

我想我得到我想要的答案了。一個星期後,我們做了一場 2018 橫品。讓我在那場的報告分享我進一步的看法。

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