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說真的,我也不太明白我為什麼愛上了Barolo ,而且著迷得像年青時剛迷上搖滾樂的那樣狂熱。
莫非是因為他身上特有的靈氣?那常年孕育著他的的阿爾卑斯山,讓他集合了天地的靈氣于一身?
又或者是那獨有的以雲霧為名的 Nebbiolo 葡萄,每一滴 Barolo 都是甘露,由雲霧呵氣而成的甘露。
但更有可能的是我深深敬拜酒農的一份執著﹕對土地的執著、對傳統的執著。
我翻閱了很多關於 Barolo 的資料。令我最難忘的是 Jancis Robinson 訪問Barolo 巨匠 Aldo Conterno 的一幕。Jancis 說用傳統方法釀造的 Barolo 要放很久才可以喝,故很多消費者無法欣賞到 Barolo 的美妙。
老先生很不以為然的回答說 Barolo 的年產量大概只有七百萬瓶,每年平均每十個意大利人才分到一瓶。那些沒能力欣賞的人我們不在乎,我們只為懂得欣賞我們這種傳統的人釀造 Barolo。
Barolo 的產區位于 Piedmont ,大部分酒莊仍以家庭作坊式經營。雖然新派、走大眾、「國際」口味路線的酒莊越來越多,但傳統的酒莊如 Giacomo Conterno 、Bruno Giacosa 仍然是最受識者尊敬的大師。
由于 Piedmont 位于意大利比較寒冷的西北部山區,葡萄是否成熟要依靠葡萄園的坐向,向南的一般比較有優勢。再加上區內的東、西部土壤有差異,所以產自不同葡萄園的 Barolo 酒差異是很大的。比較好的酒,一般都會標明是來自那一個葡萄園的,這有點像 Burgundy。
所以每次品嘗 Barolo ,都是一次探究「天、地、人」的旅程。
鼠年將盡的一個月裏,我們在家作了一次 Barolo 之旅。我們比較有系統地品嘗了 Barolo 五大主要產區裏比較有代表性的酒。
酒喝光了,現在與大家分享我的甜美回憶。
東部的 Barolo 一般較剛勁,有肌理。
這次試酒我最喜歡的是正東部的 Serralunga d'Alba 區的酒,而三瓶中最難忘的是 Bruno Giacosa 的 2001 Barolo Falletto。經過半天換瓶透氣後,香氣令人想起 Burgundy,而那光與影、陰與柔,由對比而產生的張力讓我領教了另一種力量。Bruno Giacosa 的 2001 Red Label Le Rocche 仍緊閉,Giacomo Conterno 的 1997 Cascina Francia 則大熟,都沒有 Falletto 那麼誘人。
Monforte d'Alba 位於東南方,酒是最剛勁的。屬於新派的 Domenico Clerico,他的 1997 Ginestra 正值如狼似虎之年,膨脹的、強有力的,簡直讓人透不過氣來,難怪有人把這區比作 St- Estephe。還是傳統的 Aldo Conterno 較合我意,他的 2000 Cicala 有種很深沉的力量,espresso 似的味道濃得有點鹹,再放他十年八年必成大器。
有兩個比較大的產區位於西部﹕西北的 La Morra 與西南的 Barolo,他們的風格是豐厚與芳香。我們試的兩瓶酒都充分表現了這種風格。最驚人的是 Luciano Sandrone 的 1997 Cannubi Boschis,豐厚但不冶艷,雖然算是新派的酒,但那種很經典的平衡感與傳統的 Bruno Giacosa Falletto 可說是一時瑜亮。Roberto Voerzio 也出色,他的 1997 Cerequio 在豐滿的酒體下有種深沉,不愧是新派的領軍人物。
位於中部的 Castiglione Falletto,正好揉合了東、西部的風格,剛柔並濟,有點像 St-Julien。Vietti、 Paolo Scavino 與 Cavallotto 都做得不錯,但這次最令我驚喜的, 還是 Giuseppe Mascarello 的 1998 Monprivato,平衡而且溫文爾雅,令我馬上想起 Las Cases,最充分地表現了 Castiglione Falletto 的特色。
這次旅程可以說是美不勝收。但這一試不得了,令我再一次掉入 Barolo 的無底深洞,簡直不能自拔。什麼都不去想了,最要緊的是趁歐元勢弱,多訂購些 Barolo 珍品回來。
想起李白。
後記
翻查我的筆記本,原來六年前我剛開始學喝紅酒時,竟然誤打誤撞買了一瓶很普通的 Barolo。那是我喝的第十一瓶酒,那時候初入門,只敢在屈臣氏找些便宜的酒來試。當時我竟然打了很高的分數 A-,並有以下評語﹕
Charming. Faintly sweet and fragrant. Leaves lingering sweetness in throat. Pleasing.
這瓶酒是 1998 Cantine Manfredi Barolo,在網上找到這酒莊資料,原來是在主要產區外的很普通酒莊,主要產非常便宜的 Dolcetto 與 Barbera。他們的 Barolo 應該普通至極,但我當年與他卻已一見鍾情,這不是緣份是什麼?
學習意大利酒,我有兩個最重要的啞老師。
右邊那本紅小書有很多有用的資料,包括 Barolo 的主要單一葡萄園的資料。
另一個很有用的網站與酒商是紐約的 Italian Wine Merchants(http://www.italianwinemerchantstore.com/index.html)
店主 Sergio Esposito 是意大利移民,十足的 Barolo 痴,他的網站常提供很好的資料,包括這個 Barolo 產區的簡圖。
Sergio 還有一份地標級意大利名酒的清單,以下是他的 Barolo 與 Barbaresco 之選﹕
BAROLO
Domenico Clerico Barolo 'Ciabot Mentin Ginestra'
Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva
Aldo Conterno Barolo 'Cicala'
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva
Giacomo Conterno Barolo 'Cascina Francia'
Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del 'Falletto' di Serralunga di Alba
Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Bussia Riserva
Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
Roberto Voerzio Barolo 'Brunate'
BARBARESCO
Gaja Barbaresco
Gaja Sorì Tildin
Gaja Sorì San Lorenzo
Gaja Costa Russi
Bruno Giacosa 'Santo Stefano' di Nieve Barbaresco Riserva
Bruno Giacosa Asili Barbaresco
Ceretto Barbaresco 'Bricco Asili'
La Spinetta Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina
Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga
剛訂來這本地圖集,裏面詳細介紹 Barolo 與 Barbaresco 的每個主要葡萄園。精彩!
酒博士 , 乾杯 !
[版主回覆02/01/2009 16:05:00]這真的是好東西。上次在台北的 CitySuper 我見過 Bruno Giacosa 的 Barolo,你可以試找找看。
Oh My God! You're so knowlegeable in Italian wines! Bravo!
Last week just bought 2 bottles of 98 Voerzio Cerequio, many people find 98 is surprisingly more evolved and approachable now than the superripe vintage 97. Love to try it to compare with 97!
[版主回覆02/04/2009 15:06:00]I think 1998 is an overlooked vintage because it comes after 1997 and is also drinking beautifully today. The 1998 Monprivato from G Mascarello simply blew me away, and I now have problem finding another bottle. I also had a wonderful experience with the 1998 Le Vigne of Sandrone some time ago.
As for the Domenico Clerico Ginestra, I had on different occasions the 1989 and 1990, and I certianly agree with Domenico that 1990 is better, although bottle variation could have played a part. The Ginestra is probably too tannic when it is young. The 1997 I recently had perhaps needs another 5-10 years?
Thanks for your insightful opinion and experience.
I tried several 97 Barolos. Despite some critics said 97s are not for long aging and have past the peak and , I found that most 97s are still way too young to be appreciated. I tried some 97s in past months, e.g. Pira & Figli Cannubi, Ceretto Bricco Rocche, Scavino Carobric,etc. and all were nowhere near the peak, despite they are described 'modernists'. Personally I think 90 modern Barolos are at peak while 89 can also be kept (I tried the 89 Sperss which was drinkable but definitely not at peak while 90 Ceretto Brunate was very very beautiful).
Still waiting for my 97 Monfortino, Sori Tildin, Sperss and Sori San Lorenzo to peak (but it could take 10 years)!
Cheers!
[版主回覆02/04/2009 16:42:00]I would agree with your verdict on the 1997 vintage, and perhaps the 2000 vintage, called "perfection" by James Suckling, is equally controversial. If you have not done so, you might take a look at a very extensive tasting of 1997 Barolos and Barbarescos in Nov 2007 reported by someone called Rico Thompson in Antonio Galloni's Italian form on erobertparker.com. Also there was an Executive Wine Summary tasting of 1997 Barolos and Barbarescos in the same month, also on erobertparker.com.
But having said that, there is no denying that more classical-style vintages like 1996, 1999, 2001 and 2004 offer another dimension of enjoyment (my personal preference anyway). Like the Classical vs Romantic debate in paintings and music, there are no winners and losers; just a difference of taste. The question is then: Beethoven or Schumann? But why can't you love both?
Impressive.