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上一篇關於 2004 Barolo 的網誌提及一瓶 2004 Cappellano "Pie Rupestris" 。這瓶酒背後的招紙上面有一篇短文，我找了一位意大利朋友幫我翻譯，昨天才收到他的回信。

 

 

 

 

他的英語翻譯如下﹕ 

To whom takes care about Guides

In 1983 I asked the journalist Sheldon Wasserman not to publish the scores of my wines. Not only he did so, but he also wrote down the book "Italian Nobles Wines" that I asked not to be included in any wine ranking where the comparison – made dogma from the slothful – is disembedding numerical terms and not shared human fatigue.

I didn't change my mind because I have a small farm which produces 20.000 bottles a year, I turn to a narrow number of customers-friends and I believe in freedoom of information: positive or negative.

I think of my hills like an anarchical land, with no opposing parties or inquisitors, interiorly rich when it is stimulated by severe critical; I struggle for a collective able to still express solidarity with farmers who were not awarded by Mother Nature.

Is it a dream? Please allow me to believe!

Teobaldo

 

 

 

意大利酒的酒標常可以看到釀酒人在他名字之後冠以 Viticoltore 的字樣（Viticoltori 是眾數），這是「酒農」的意思。多麼謙卑的人！這種熱愛大自然，熱愛傳統的農民在意大利比比皆是，但 Teobaldo Cappellano 應該算是最突出的一位吧？

我聽到的，是一種道家的哲學觀﹕大地是上天的恩澤，無分厚薄，人的本份是竭盡其能，把他的那份做到最好。所以他不要人家為酒打分數，大概他認為這是對天、地、人的大不敬吧。他說﹕這是痴人做夢嗎？但我是堅信不移的！

這是一種不折不扣的齊物觀。

可惜的是，Teobaldo Cappellano 今年二月去世了。

他死前希望搬回家住，好讓他離開這世界的一刻可以看著葡萄園，只可惜事與願違。多感人的一幕。人與大地的最後紐帶，仿佛隨他之去而斷掉了！

我又一次想起了馬勒（Gustav Mahler）的「大地之歌」。

在 Robert Parker 網站裏的討論專欄對老人家的去世有很多追思性的文字。

見﹕http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/showthread.php?t=195242

Antonio Galloni 如此寫道﹕

Baldo Cappellano was a man of enormous integrity who lived life according to his own steadfast principles. In recent years Cappellano had been President of Vini Veri, an association of producers of artisan wines, and also fought tirelessly for the rights of the region's numerous small growers.

Cappellano discouraged critics and journalists from visting him and asked those who did not to score his wines as he didn't want to feel a sense of competition with his neighbors, an admirable sentiment that is sadly non-existent elsewhere. Yet the wines spoke for themselves and were always among the region's finest. I was lucky to visit Cappellano on several occassions. The visits were always lengthy, as Cappellano followed the beat of a different era, but I always left feeling enriched, not only in terms of my appreciation for his wines, but also spiritually.

另有一篇來自意大利的 Alessandro Franceschini，下面是  Max Marinucci 的翻譯﹕

（意大利原文見﹕http://www.lavinium.com/laviniumblog/?p=1645 ）

“No more regal robes, enough with clichés” he had boasted the last time we had met, last year in July. Then he would call me on the phone to thank me for that short article I had written and to make fun of me a little, with his typical sense of humor, never shallow or gratuitous.

He has left us, yesterday afternoon, succumbing to an ugly disease that took him way too early. He wanted to die at home so he could see his beautiful vineyards of Serralunga, him whom was born in Asmara in 1944, where everyone who passed through was always welcomed with warmth and simplicity.

King of the Barolo Chinato. It is true but, frankly, I have always thought it wasn’t fair to simply associate him with that unique delicacy produced in such small quantities. He was one of those characters of the world of wine, of the Langhe, Barolo, one of a kind: tireless crusader of tradition, respect for the soil and the Nebbiolo, courageous as very few in taking positions, in search of confrontations, as he did not long ago in Siena, in the company of Franco Ziliani during the debate with Ezio Rivella in regards to the fate of Brunello di Montalcino.

"The last of the Mohicans" was one of his popular definitions: the other two being Bartolo Mascarello, who passed away a few years ago, and Giuseppe Rinaldi. The work of Teobaldo Cappellano, will now be carried by his son, Augusto, with the same heart as his father, in the vineyard and in the cellar, crossing the vine rows of Gabutti with the same wrecked but efficient Jeep in which he took me around the last time I saw him and told me: "you journalists have the habit of not asking to see the vineyards but to run directly into the cellars to taste"

Ciao Baldo.

永別了，Baldo。