Love in the Time of Coronavirus (26)：最憶是天堂

十年前的九月採收時節，我們第一次踏足 Montalcino。

這路子是由一連串意外舖成的。

先從我訪尋降膽固醇的妙藥開始，爲了找好喝的藥，我開始嘗百酒。太太的口味挑剔，百中挑一的選了瓶意大利酒為她當年的至愛，從此我便掉進意大利酒的深坑。

2011 年在香港的國際酒展偶遇 Le Chiuse 的 Nicolo’ 與 Simonetta 夫婦，得到他們慷概義助，在翌年我們得以逐一拜訪我們從 Kerin O’Keefe 的著作中發現的幾家小酒莊，北方真善美三雄便是那次最大的收穫。

The rest is history。回來後我爲了傳福音，便不知天高地厚的辦起試酒活動來，後來取了廣州一位年輕酒友的網名稱我的活動為隨意行。

我一直頗爲嚴肅的生活便從此添上繽紛的色彩來。

十年了，能不憶 Le Chiuse，能不憶天堂？

久久未能去看望這幾位好友，只好靠回憶，靠十年前我們用手觸摸過的樹上的葡萄，如今已成爲滴滴 emozione。

十天前我找了最要好的幾位酒友一起重溫了 2012 Le Chiuse。

當晚是一場 2012 橫品，大家最喜歡的便是 2012 Le Chiuse Brunello。我發現今天他剛進入了第一個 sweet spot。莊主 Lorenzo 很想知道我們的品試結果，我第二天便寫了報告給他：

The Brunello was another story. I had this three times before, and last night was the time when it has turned the corner and started to be approachable, revealing all its splendor with ease, and yes, elegance. There was great depth, layers and layers of fruit and minerals meshed together, and the tannins are super fine but were clearly there to support the weight of the wine. I like Ian d’Agata’s characterization of the 2012 vintage: it is a mix of 2006 and 2008, in other words, both warm and cool climates. A young Brunello is often fearful because of its aggressive power, but at this stage, it has become lovely.

他這樣囘我：

Interesting, I agree with what you said, what I’m enjoying now in the 2012 Brunello is the harmony, in everything, between the elements (acidity, tannins, alcohol etc etc) and between the flavours (there is not a prevalence of a family so you can enjoy all)

他一語中的：Harmony（和諧）。十年前見他的舅公 Franco Biondi Santi，老先生便說和諧與愛是 Biondi Santi 的核心價值，今天我們又嘗到了。

爲了和諧與愛，前天我在家開了天堂莊的 2012 Brunello 。

開瓶的時候是根日，一下杯便飄來花香，但很快便被深色的土層掩蓋了，入口帶點鹹味。