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今年的香港國際美酒展正式開幕的前一天，TDC 辦了一個博客優先導賞團，我原來報了名想去，只為品嘗一個名叫 Bibbiano 酒莊的 Chianti 。攤位見﹕ http://www.hktdc.com/fair/exdetail/hkwinefair-en/1X69NL09/HKTDC-Hong-Kong-International-Wine-And-Spirits-Fair/Bibbiano.htm
而我對這個酒莊的興趣，純粹是因為鼎鼎大名的 Giulio Gambelli ﹕http://www.tenutadibibbiano.it/the_people_giulio_gambelli.html
這位老先生同時是 Soldera 與 Montevertine 的靈魂人物。所以我一心只想去看一場魔術表演。
但後來知道原來導賞團期間，並非所有參展酒莊都開放，所以導賞團我沒有去，等正式開幕時我才去意大利酒區很快的逛了一圈。
意大利酒區比較冷清，但這也是意料中事。
我最愛的 Barolo 與 Barbaresco 區只有兩三個酒莊參展，這也難怪，因為這兩種酒是最不 consumer friendly 的。讓我驚奇的倒是百年老酒莊 Giacomo Brezza 竟然擺了個攤位，家族的最新一代 Enzo Brezza 聽到我列舉我的至愛，臉上有點半信半疑的表情。他們的 Barolo 我聽聞已久，今天終于有機會品試，又興奮又可惜，因為他們有一種來自 Barolo 村的傳統口味，連 basic Barolo 也造得可口兼正宗， Barbera 同樣精彩，可惜的是沒有人代理。
陣容最強盛的是 Tuscany 三雄﹕ I Tre Maestri Toscani （The Three Masters of Tuscany），他們的概念想是來自 The Three Tenors 。
Brunello di Montalcino 、Chianti Classico 與 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 是Tuscany 三個最重要的產區，三個商會聯合辦了個頗大的聯合展區，而我的目標酒莊 Bibbiano 便在Chianti Classico 展攤。
可惜的是酒莊沒有派人來，但有機會品嘗他們的三瓶 Chianti ，已令我很滿足。
2008 Chianti Classico 是最基本的酒，最傳統的 Sangiovese ，很鄉土，很 Tuscan 。TDC 網站上列出來的 fob 價格是 5.8 （歐元？）。
2008 Chianti Classico Montornello 是單一葡萄園制作，混了 5% 的 Merlot ，頓時變得很可口，有點艷麗，而且有點 modern 的感覺，比較大眾口味吧。fob 價格才7塊！
最精彩的是2007 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino ，也是來自單一葡萄園，100% Sangiovese Grosso，圓潤、複雜，可以與最好的 Sangiovese 爭一日之長。fob 價格才9.5！
我問當值的人員香港有沒有代理，他們說代理商在廣州。 Good luck to Hong Kong as Asian wine hub！
我正準備離開時，突然一個很熟悉的臉龐在我眼前一亮，我正聽著電話，也顧不了禮儀，馬上衝上前跟他握手並大呼﹕Paolo , so surprised to see you here ！
之前我只在書上見過他，但他的 Cepparello 一直是我的至愛。見﹕Super Sangiovese!
另外請參看From Bordeaux to Chianti ，他們的國際葡萄也是頂好的。
我告訴 Paolo 說我最近先後喝過他的 1990、1997、1999 和2001，手邊也有他的 2004、2006 ，而且他的 Cepparello 是我最喜歡的 Sangiovese 之一，他顯得有點興奮，並告訴我 2001 is elegant, and 1997 is big 。
我問他幹嗎此時要來香港，不在家釀酒，他說他明天便回去，葡萄兩星期前已收割了，今年的葡萄蠻不錯的。
我後來看酒莊的介紹，發現 Paolo 從種植、釀酒到銷售都一把抓，典型的 artisan producer 是也，我想了老半天也不明白他哪來那麼大興趣要來香港的酒展。最小的酒莊與最大的國家有什麼關係？我拼命的想也想不明白，大概是 Cina 太引起他的好奇吧。
踫到Paolo de Marchi 是我最大的意外驚喜！這還得要感謝 TDC 的 Emily ！
Good ah.
[版主回覆11/06/2010 16:41:00]Kevin, Do us all a favor by representing Bibbiano. Si?
The Bibbiano Riserva Vigna del Capannino 2007 was also my favourite young Chianti in the I Tre Maestri Tocasci tasting. The 1999 Castello di Ama Bellavista was stunning as well, but is frightfully expensive in HK. Really hope that somebody will represent Bibbiano here!
[版主回覆11/07/2010 10:17:00]Glad to know you also love the Gambelli magic.
The Bellavista is expensive relative to Italian sangiovese-based wines, but fair if you compare it with Gaja or the hottest Super Tuscans. In any case, with only 9,000 bottles a year, why give it away if you are the producer? Their basic Chianti is already extremely good.
Many thanks. I will look into the potential.
[版主回覆11/07/2010 21:14:00]I'm sure a lot of wine lovers are waiting anxiously for your good news! Thanks a lot!
心 ，你好！
我們首次代表惠康超級市場與您聯絡，希望邀請您出席一個試酒活動。
一年一度、 萬眾期待的法國「 Beaujolais Nouveau 薄酒萊新酒」 馬上就要上市了！惠康超市為了慶祝這個紅酒界的年度盛事，特別於 11 月第三個星期四全球同步發售當日﹝即 11 月 18 日﹞舉辦一個試酒會，讓您率先品嚐本年度新鮮的 「 Beaujolais Nouveau 2010 」 。舉辦時間及地點為下午 2 時 30 分至 3 時正，於銅鑼灣記利佐治街惠康分店。如蒙閣下的參與，定必會令活動生色不少。
如您有興趣出席或需要了解更多詳情，可透過電話或電郵與我們聯絡：
Pamela So ﹝蘇嘉敏﹞： 2533 9916 / 9122 6168 / pso@webershandwick.com
Gloria Lai ﹝黎芷盈﹞： 2533 9983 / 6022 8211/ glai@webershandwick.com
期待你的回覆。
敬祝安康
Gloria Lai
Gloria Lai
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for medium priced Chianti, my favorite is Badia di Passigangno from Antinori! But the price has increased from $200 to over $300 today…
btw, GDV is having a sale on '07 Aligote from Dom. Leroy at $327, not to be missed!
[版主回覆11/15/2010 17:45:00]I'm afraid I have never liked the Badia a Passignano too much; it is too fruit-driven, long on price but short on Sangiovese character. Their Marchesi Antinori is almost always the better value and better Sangiovese. But there are so many better choices and better values if you cast your net wide enough as Chianti is a huge region with a great variety in terroir.
Interestingly, I shared a bottle of the '04(?) Aligote from Dom Leroy with GDV's owner some months ago and found it to be delightful, which is the highest accolade from a die-hard red wine drinker. But thanks for the tip.
I dug out my TNs for Badia. Yes you are quite true that it's more international styled than traditional. But what i like most is its depth and complexity which is seldom found in its price range…
[版主回覆11/16/2010 11:05:00]Yes this is a tribute to the diverse terroir you can find in Chianti: some are downright rustic, but some soar to the heights of, shall I say, Burgundy in sheer elegance. They are all wonderful examples of the heights and depths Sangiovese can take us to. I have a hard time deciding if I like Chianti or Brunello better, and luckily I don't have to make a choice.
心兄,
My wife and I just came back from a week-long vacation in Italy. We had a blast and the food and wine in Tuscany is definitely one of the highlight of this trip.
At a wine bar in Florence, I had a chance to taste the 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino (grey label). It was decent, but I didn’t have enough time and wine to really form an in-depth impression.
During this trip, I drank mostly Chianti / Brunello and I think I have a much better understanding of the traditional/modern style of these wines now. We also take a day trip to Chianti for a wine country tour. I didn’t get to taste a lot of wine since my wife cannot touch alcohol during her pregnancy. Otherwise, I would probably visit a couple more winemakers. However, even strolling around the wine country, seeing the wonderful landscape and smelling the freshly squeezed olive oil in the air makes us want to go back again for another trip.
I just want to thank you again for opening my vision to Italian wines. I started missing the food, wine and people there already. At the very least, I have a couple cases of Barolo/Barbaresco waiting for me at home…
Brian
[版主回覆11/23/2010 10:22:00]I envy you, my friend. Had my Italian friend arrange visits to Soldera and Montevertine in October, only to be cancelled at the last minute when I realized my passport was to expire shortly. Sigh! What wineries did you visit?
The 2006 Capannino you had was understandably too young and too closed at the moment (like the 2007 I tasted at the wine show), especially in a pop and pour setting, but the simple beauty of traditionally made Chianti is captivating! I have finally ordered all 3 wines, and guess I'll have to be contented with "wineglass travelling". Also tried Castello di Cacchiano last week, another Chianti made under supervision of Giulio Gambelli. Such an unadorned beauty. Few people make these wines anymore, and still fewer would adore them. Cacchiano's owner said: "I paid for my purism both psychologically and financially." Achingly beautiful, shall I say?
Good hearing from you.
I should say I envy
you with your collection and your experience/knowledge with Italian wine. If at
all possible, definitely make a trip there. I already planned on having a trip
to Piedmonte sometime next year.
Anyhow, since I had
relatively short time to prepare for this trip (worked 70-80 hrs per week
before taking off), I did not get a chance to contact some of the more
well-known winemakers. We visited Castello del Trebbio during our journey and
tasted a few wines they have to offer. Their Bianco di Castignano 2009 is a
clean, crisp white with decent depth and mineral. For 6 Euros, it was a good
bargain.
Their base Chianti
(2009 vintage) was made without seeing any oak barrel. It has nose
of candied red fruit, cherry/berry. A very green wine with loads of fruit
tannin, acidity but quite fruit-forward. I can’t say I enjoyed it.
The last wine I
tasted was their 2006 Chianti Rufina Riserva. It was a big wine with dark/red
fruit to the nose. Solid fruit core, relatively low acidity for a Chinati. My
tasting note reads “a bit too international/crowd pleaser, oak barrel is taking
center stage.” Not sure if it will improve with more bottle aging. For 15 Euro,
you might want to give it a shot.
One interesting fact
they mentioned is that quite a few winemakers in that region nowadays are aging
wine in both barrique/botte, depending of vintage. So it should be considered a
compromise between tradition/modern Italian wine-making.
[版主回覆11/24/2010 09:38:00]Chianti is perhaps the most confusing appellation, and that's not just because of the Super Tuscans. It is a huge area with huge variation in topograpy and microclimate, but all lumped into simple designations like Chianti Classico and Chianti. But all the more rewarding for explorers (me included).
Never heard of Castello del Trebbio before, but if you talk about Chianti Rufina, Fattoria Selvapiana's Bucerchiale and Frescobaldi's Montesodi, both single crus, are the most highly regarded. One traditional and one modern, so it is pretty easy to pick.
Sangiovese takes to small French barrels much better than Nebbiolo, as attested by both Brunellos and Chiantis, and the best example would be Cepparello. I'd strongly suggest you pick up a bottle like 1997 or 1999. Up to this point, this is the most charming Chianti for me, splitting hairs with Le Pergole Torte from Montevertine.