最深奧的 Happy Birthday

上星期為 Gladys 開的兩瓶「生日酒」帶來意想不到的驚喜,但半個月以前的另一瓶「生日酒」卻是最意想不到的意外!

 

我們幾乎每天都喝意大利酒,所以今年太太生日的那天,我想製造一點驚喜。踫巧月前一家我相熟的店慶祝周年,我便下狠心買了一瓶 1996 DRC Romanee-St Vivant 準備為她賀壽。聽店裏的人說這瓶酒開始熟了,店主甚至可以很準確的告訴我最好喝之前一個半小時開瓶,而且最重要的是用 Grand Cru 酒杯。

為了保險,我晚飯前四個小時已經開瓶,兩個小時內試了四次,我很驚訝的發現酒非常緊閉!

頭半個小時幾乎沒有香氣,味道不甜不酸,像杯茶。

一個小時後出現一點點的香氣,如塵土、如輕輕的花香,再後來出了一點黑黑的像巧克力的氣味。口感如絲絨的質地,很細密,但仍然感覺不到果味。

一個半小時後有一點煙醺、燒烤氣味,隱約有點櫻桃和紅果,至于口感開始有一絲甜、一絲酸,平衡但很弱。

差不多兩個小時後再多一點點的變化,但不大。

我開始擔心了,還有兩個小時便晚飯,唯有鋌而走險,把半瓶倒進到另一個瓶子。這是我的保守 decanting 方法。

換瓶後一個小時,發現換瓶的部分開放了一點,好像有些花粉的香氣,入口多一些果味,優雅,但這是輕微的變化而不是脫胎換骨。

晚飯的時候,換瓶兩個小時的酒有很微弱的 perfumed nose ,口感軟綿綿的,但味道是中性的,不甜不酸,像一杯涼涼的普洱茶。

在原瓶透氣四個小時的酒表現較佳﹕有更多的 perfumed nose,感覺上像 Giacosa 的簡單版本,但口感好不了多少,同樣是只軟腳蟹,感覺遙遠而不真實。

倒在 Grand Cru 酒杯的酒清一點,標準 Burgundy 酒杯濁一點;換瓶的酒鬆一點,原瓶的緊一點,但我們只像換了四個不同的站立姿勢,但苦等的客人如果不出現,這一切都只屬枉然。

晚飯後兩個小時,我們打算把餘下的半瓶酒喝掉。酒剛下杯時有曇花一現的花香,但很快便消失得了無影蹤。味道這時候已經失去活力,比晚飯時還要軟,酸度開始上來了,終于我們沒辦法把酒喝完便倒掉。

這瓶酒顛覆了我對Burgundy 的認識。我過去接觸的Burgundy 不算多,但整瓶慢慢喝掉的也有半百之數,雖然大多是我們棄法從意以前的事。我常覺得喝Burgundy 是為她的香氣而非口感,而且好處是丹寧低,比較早已經可口易喝。

 

可是這瓶1996 DRC Romanee-St Vivant 緊閉得卻更像一瓶頂級的 1996 Barbaresco 。我最近開過一瓶 Giacosa 1996 Barbaresco Asili Riserva ,兩天之內我完全不得其門而入,但Burgundy 怎麼會這樣呢?

我只好翻查資料以明究竟。

Clive Coates 在他的專著The Wines of Burgundy 裏收錄了他在 2005 11 月的品試報告﹕

Ripe nose.  Quite smooth already … Some of the spices of maturity here …

他建議的適飲期是 2005 – 2020 年,所以他喝的那瓶應該開始成熟了。

我又問了幾位平時寫 Burgundy 寫得比較多的網友,以下是部分回覆﹕

·  96 年是 Burgundy 的極好年份,有部份已進入適飲期,不過 DRC RSV 96 真係無試過,難以給予資料以作參考,但道聽途說, DRC RSV 水準是近年才開始漸漸提升的,而 RSV 的風格,其香氣十分吸引,風格較為優雅及女性化,力量不是十分強勁,或許對某些飲慣較硬淨風格的飲家,可能會稍嫌薄弱!

·  理論上96 年一般Burgundy 現在已經飲得,但 Burgundy 講求天地人 , 除年份及地區外 , Wine Maker 的手法會有決定性影嚮 , 加上每支酒的經歴及儲存 History 都未必相同 , 好難以單一因素去評論什麼酒什麼時侯開及唞幾耐最好 , 這些都要開瓶那一刻親身試 , 才能决定原瓶唞定 Decant , 用窄身定濶身 Decanter , 怎樣 Decant , 用大Bur 杯定細 Bur ………… 這一切都要飲家自己去摸索及嘗試。這亦是專業 Sommelier 值錢的地方。

·   個人近兩年左右喝到 1996 年的 Burgundy 特級園經驗幾乎都是失望的,不論醒不醒酒或是否提前開瓶,幾乎都不會有太大變化,一級園則普遍表現較佳,或許 1996 真的是個非常慢熟的年份吧。如果真要喝比較成熟的 Burgundy ,我個人建議可以先試 90 年代的一級園或是 91 93 年份,頂尖的特級園部分個人覺得還是 70 年代的年份比較有把握是較為成熟的。近期喝過表現比較好的 96 年大概只有 Denis Mortet 的村莊級酒與 Robert Arnoux St. vivian ,其他酒則不論醒酒或原瓶透氣似乎都沒用,所以老實說對於 1996 年份的酒未來會不會大大改善我實在沒有把握。

·   DRC winemaking style 屬於耐存型,加上 1996 本身就已經是一個耐久存,高酸的年份,如果想在今年飲到 DRC RSV 真正實力的話, 建議開 1991/ 2001年。

我要謝謝給我指導的諸位,他們讓我發現Burgundy 是最多學問的酒。酒海無涯,我這輩子也不愁寂寞了!

5 thoughts on “最深奧的 Happy Birthday

  1. I will go for Giacosa anytime even if DRC priced down to Giacosa's.  I think DRC is way too over-priced but it is also true that the whole world do not mind paying the premium, yourself included. But may be Vosne Romanee is not your Burgundy. Try a Chambolle perhaps. I whole-heartedly recommend Robert Groffier's Chambolle Musigny Les Amourouses. 
    [版主回覆09/14/2011 23:03:00]Thanks for the advice.  I remember wonderful experiences with Charmes, Gevrey and Vosne Romanee, and a 2002 Les Amoureuses from Frederic Magnien too.  But it's a real discovery that a good Burgundy can be so elusive when young.  I have sold all my Bordeaux, but am still keeping some Burgundy, just for a change.  Great wines, and even greater prices.  I always remember what an Italian friend told me: the great wines in the world are different only in their prices.

  2. "Burgundy 是為她的香氣而非口感", 雖然我喝過的酒不多, 但是對於Burgundy, 常常是覺得聞比喝好, 加上的價格越來越不可愛, 還是喝義大利酒好, 實惠的價格就有許多驚喜, 就算失望了, 當個經驗一笑置之, 反正大不了再去買一瓶, 隔年再試. 如果失望的是DRC就不能這麼坦然釋懷了, 不過我也沒喝過DRC, 應該也買不起啊,呵呵!
    [版主回覆09/15/2011 17:55:00]我只是想多嘗試多見識,算是對得住造物主。價格嘛,不提也罷。

  3. Seems like your btl is shut down completely. Had a btl of 93 RSV lately from Jadot and it gave us a lot of pleasure for the first 2~3 hrs!  Guess 96 is a vintage that requires a lot of patience for the Grand Cru. While you enjoy the fragrance of Burg, don't forget to enjoy the ultimate balance of the mouthfeel, lacy, layered , perfume , aristocratic. If you liek the nose o Burg, you only like half of the wine.
    [版主回覆09/23/2011 09:19:00]I've been away for a week, to explore Ningbo, hence the late reply. 
     
    To me, Burg is like a short trip to a an exotic place like Ningbo, good for the fresh sights and smells and food that it offers.  It is wonderful for whatever it offers because you tend to lower your expectations.  Absolutely no competition with Hangzhou, but I still like it.  Hangzhou of course is my Barolo and Sangiovese.  I can somehow understand what you said about Burg's palate, but I just smile when I think of Soldera and Giacosa.   

  4. Hi, just drop by to say hello. My friend  opened a 67 giacomo conterno barolo for a saturday lunch and we enjoyed it tremendously! Thanks to you for the tips on the proper way to prepare and treat the aged barolo. It was uncorked the evening before. My friend told me the stinky, vinegar like smell was unbelievable. But then, the fragrance it oozes the next day was beyond imagination! I sent her to link and manage to convince her. It behaved almost like a beautiful aged burgundy, just slightly more earthy and rugged. Forward nose, seamless blending of fruits bundled up by strings of thin but firm acidity. LOVELY! Can't wait till we try a 64 vintage in the near future, apparently an even better vintage than 67. Chambolle musigny les amourouses: can be quite meaty and full body, a masculine burgundy, and that is coming from a juvenile burgundy drinker who is 'wise' to keep a safe distance. But, tasting anything Leroy is just a sheer joy to me. Aged burgundy ( 66 la corton, for example ) are great wines to drink. Prices are going up all the time, but some less well known ones can be had for a lot less.
    [版主回覆09/23/2011 09:13:00]This is so beautiful!  I'd be very interested to know every single detail about how this stinky old bottle changes from an ugly duckling to a swan!  Can you ask your friend to give more detailed tasting notes as the wine evolves?  I was less lucky with both my '67 and '64 before, but I was less experienced then.  I'm so happy that you made it!!!
     
    I had a bottle of 1985 Leroy Gevry Chambertin premier cru years ago, very impressive, but that was before my infatuation with Italian wine, so I cannot compare. 
     
    Thanks for your sharing so generously!

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