2014 踏進意大利酒的世界(內篇之四)﹕Vinitaly 1﹕Gambero Rosso

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Vinitaly 的規模,大概是香港國際酒展的十多二十倍,所以為節省時間,我一早便決定一般不試 Barolo,也不試 Brunello。我選定的幾個目標是﹕AbruzzoValtellina Sicily

P1250028我們從 Gambero Rosso 特設的展館開始,除了上面這三個地區以外,我也盡量找 Slow Wine Guide 介紹的「蝸牛」酒莊。

下面是我的新發現。

最驚艷的 3 款,我的「三酒杯」獎﹕

Puglia

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2011 Gianfranco Fino, Primitivo di Manduria “Es”

南部的Puglia 只應產廉價餐酒,可是 2004 年殺出了個名叫Gianfranco Fino  的奇人,他把Primitivo 變成 fine wine — Es 有密林一樣的濃密果味,但入口如 liquid silkGianfranco Fino 與北方的Enzo PontoniMiani)遙相呼應,足見意酒的新浪潮方興未艾。

“Es, according to Sigmund Freud, is instinct and wild passion — the same used to produce this wine — with no conditions, no rules, beyond space and time, logic or moral.  It doesn’t know good and bad.  Es submits to one principle only: PLEASURE.” – from producer website

http://www.gianfrancofino.it/

 

Sicilia

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2011 Arianna Occhipinti, Il Frappato

除了 Etna Nerello Mascalese,還有 Frappato 要留意。如果前者是西西里的 Nebbiolo,他大概可比 Sangiovese?石榴香、礦物、輕盈,醉人!

“I adore it because it’s difficult, at times rough and bloody, and yet extremely elegant.” – from producer website

http://www.agricolaocchipinti.it/

 

Sardegna

P1250035

2012 Vigne Surrau, Vermentino di Gallura Superior “Sciala”

不銹鋼桶釀造的異品,檸檬與清新的花香,但口感豐富而且有長長的回味,查 wine searcher 價錢不過港幣 100 多元!

http://www.vignesurrau.it/default.asp

 

令我有驚喜的酒﹕

Piemonte

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2009 Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo Monvigliero

Verdunohttp://www.fratellialessandria.it/web/

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2010 Bricco Maiolica, Nebbiolo d’Alba “Cumot”  

小木桶的咖啡豆香氣,但蠻複雜的

Diano d’Albahttp://www.briccomaiolica.it/

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2009 Cantina dei Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema, Carema Et. Bianca Riserva

Caremahttp://www.caremadoc.it/template.php?pag=9080

P1250075

2007 Rovellotti, Ghemme Chioso dei Pomi

平衡、優雅

Ghemmehttp://www.rovellotti.it/

P1250076

2010 Luigi Spertino, Barbera d’Asti Sup. La Mandoria

驚艷,真的應該多留意 Asti Barbera

 P1250080

2009 Torraccia del Piantavigna, Gattinara

很純淨

http://www.torracciadelpiantavigna.it/torraccia_del_piantavigna_home.php

P1250081

2011 Vigneti Massa, Montecitorio

“Walter Massa is a big-hearted, gifted winemaker.  If Timorasso has become what it is today, much of the credit belongs to him … in 1987, he began to vinify the first bottles of Timorasso and has enjoyed success ever since.” — Slow Wine Guide 2013

莊主很熱情的解釋他的酒,但我一句也聽不懂,這是瀕臨絕種的白葡萄,原來Piemonte 也不盡是 NebbioloBarbera Dolcetto。驚奇加驚艷!

http://www.timorasso.it/

 

 Liguria

P1250067

2012 Terre Bianche, Rossese di Dolceacqua

Rossese 是本土葡萄的名字,有樹木、生普洱等非常有趣的氣味

http://terrebianche.com/it

LombardiaValtellina

Lombardia 種植的 Nebbiolo Langhe 相比,有種瘦骨嶙峋的感覺,另有一番風味,這幾款都有不錯的表現。

P12500572009 Sandro Fay, Valtellina Sforzato Ronco del Picchio

http://www.vinifay.it/

 P1250061

2009 Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Sfursat Fruttaio Ca’ Rizzieri

http://www.rainoldi.com/

 P1250055

2010 Mamete Prevostini, Valtellina Sup. Sassella San Lorenzo

http://www.mameteprevostini.com/en/

 Sicilia

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2011 Feudi del Pisciotto, Frappato Carolina Marengo

Arianna Occhipinti 濃艷

http://winerelaisfeudidelpisciotto.com/en/winery

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2010 Carlo Hauner, Malvasia delle Lipari Passito Riserva

有名的甜酒,名不虛傳

http://www.hauner.it/

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2010 Pietradolce, Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli

瘦削型,桶味較重,丹寧強勁

http://www.pietradolce.it/

 P1250046

2011 Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso Feudo

強悍型,礦物味重,丹寧厚重

http://www.girolamorusso.it/girolamorusso/Home.html

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