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Vinitaly 的規模,大概是香港國際酒展的十多二十倍,所以為節省時間,我一早便決定一般不試 Barolo,也不試 Brunello。我選定的幾個目標是﹕Abruzzo、Valtellina 和 Sicily。
我們從 Gambero Rosso 特設的展館開始,除了上面這三個地區以外,我也盡量找 Slow Wine Guide 介紹的「蝸牛」酒莊。
下面是我的新發現。
最驚艷的 3 款,我的「三酒杯」獎﹕
Puglia
2011 Gianfranco Fino, Primitivo di Manduria “Es”
南部的Puglia 只應產廉價餐酒,可是 2004 年殺出了個名叫Gianfranco Fino 的奇人,他把Primitivo 變成 fine wine — Es 有密林一樣的濃密果味,但入口如 liquid silk。Gianfranco Fino 與北方的Enzo Pontoni(Miani)遙相呼應,足見意酒的新浪潮方興未艾。
“Es, according to Sigmund Freud, is instinct and wild passion — the same used to produce this wine — with no conditions, no rules, beyond space and time, logic or moral. It doesn’t know good and bad. Es submits to one principle only: PLEASURE.” – from producer website
Sicilia
2011 Arianna Occhipinti, Il Frappato
除了 Etna 的Nerello Mascalese,還有 Frappato 要留意。如果前者是西西里的 Nebbiolo,他大概可比 Sangiovese?石榴香、礦物、輕盈,醉人!
“I adore it because it’s difficult, at times rough and bloody, and yet extremely elegant.” – from producer website
http://www.agricolaocchipinti.it/
Sardegna
2012 Vigne Surrau, Vermentino di Gallura Superior “Sciala”
不銹鋼桶釀造的異品,檸檬與清新的花香,但口感豐富而且有長長的回味,查 wine searcher 價錢不過港幣 100 多元!
http://www.vignesurrau.it/default.asp
令我有驚喜的酒﹕
Piemonte
2009 Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo Monvigliero
(Verduno)http://www.fratellialessandria.it/web/
2010 Bricco Maiolica, Nebbiolo d’Alba “Cumot”
小木桶的咖啡豆香氣,但蠻複雜的
(Diano d’Alba)http://www.briccomaiolica.it/
2009 Cantina dei Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema, Carema Et. Bianca Riserva
(Carema)http://www.caremadoc.it/template.php?pag=9080
2007 Rovellotti, Ghemme Chioso dei Pomi
平衡、優雅
(Ghemme)http://www.rovellotti.it/
2010 Luigi Spertino, Barbera d’Asti Sup. La Mandoria
驚艷,真的應該多留意 Asti 的 Barbera
2009 Torraccia del Piantavigna, Gattinara
很純淨
http://www.torracciadelpiantavigna.it/torraccia_del_piantavigna_home.php
2011 Vigneti Massa, Montecitorio
“Walter Massa is a big-hearted, gifted winemaker. If Timorasso has become what it is today, much of the credit belongs to him … in 1987, he began to vinify the first bottles of Timorasso and has enjoyed success ever since.” — Slow Wine Guide 2013
莊主很熱情的解釋他的酒,但我一句也聽不懂,這是瀕臨絕種的白葡萄,原來Piemonte 也不盡是 Nebbiolo、Barbera 和 Dolcetto。驚奇加驚艷!
Liguria
2012 Terre Bianche, Rossese di Dolceacqua
Rossese 是本土葡萄的名字,有樹木、生普洱等非常有趣的氣味
Lombardia(Valtellina)
在 Lombardia 種植的 Nebbiolo 與 Langhe 相比,有種瘦骨嶙峋的感覺,另有一番風味,這幾款都有不錯的表現。
2009 Sandro Fay, Valtellina Sforzato Ronco del Picchio
2009 Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Sfursat Fruttaio Ca’ Rizzieri
2010 Mamete Prevostini, Valtellina Sup. Sassella San Lorenzo
http://www.mameteprevostini.com/en/
Sicilia
2011 Feudi del Pisciotto, Frappato Carolina Marengo
比 Arianna Occhipinti 濃艷
http://winerelaisfeudidelpisciotto.com/en/winery
2010 Carlo Hauner, Malvasia delle Lipari Passito Riserva
有名的甜酒,名不虛傳
2010 Pietradolce, Etna Rosso V. Barbagalli
瘦削型,桶味較重,丹寧強勁
2011 Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso Feudo
強悍型,礦物味重,丹寧厚重